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GREAT    RUSSIA 


i     PEASANT   COSTUME   FROM    ARCHANGEL 


r" 
i 


Studio,  Special  nomW1-  \3ifc'. 


PEASANT  ART 
IN  RUSSIA 


EDITED  BY 
CHARLES  HOLME 


I* 


MCMXII 

4 THE  STUDIO'  LTD. 

LONDON,  PARIS,  NEW  YORK 


PREFATORY  NOTE 

The  Editor  desires  to  express  his  indebtedness  to  Princess  Alexandre 
Sidamon-Eristoff  and  Mile.  N.  de  Chabelskoy  for  the  valuable 
assistance  they  have  rendered  him  in  the  preparation  of  this  volume 
by  placing  at  his  disposal  their  remarkable  collection  of  Russian 
Peasant  Art.  Most  of  the  illustrations  which  accompany  the  article 
on  Great  Russia  are  from  this  source,  including  the  unique  and 
beautiful  series  of  peasant  costumes.  The  Editor  also  tenders  his 
thanks  to  Count  Alexis  Bobrinsky,  who  has  supplied  the  other 
illustrations  which  appear  in  the  section  devoted  to  Great  Russia, 
mostly  those  of  articles  in  wood.  Amongst  others  who  have 
given  valuable  help  should  be  mentioned  M.  Paul  Ettinger, 
M.  N.  Bilachevsky,  Director  of  the  Nicolas  II  Museum  at  Kieff, 
M.  Basile  Kritchevsky,  M.  S.  Wasilkovsky,  M.  Gruchevsky, 
M.  P.  Dorochenko,  the  Polskie  Towarzystwo  Krajoznawcze  (the 
Polish  Society  for  the  Investigation  of  the  Country),  Mme.  Al. 
Janowski,  M.  Wisznieki,  Mme.  Maryan  Wawrzeniecki,  M.  E. 
Trojanowski,  M.  Michael  Brensztejn,  and  the  authorities  of  the 
various  museums  who  have  kindly  allowed  examples  of  Russian 
Peasant  Art  under  their  charge  to  be  reproduced  here. 


ui 


ARTICLES 

PAGE 

THE  PEASANT  ART  OF    GREAT    RUSSIA.     By  PRINCESS    ALEXANDRE 

SIDAMON-ERISTOFF  and  MLLE.  N.  DE  CHABELSKOY      ...          ...  3 

THE    PEASANT    ART    OF     LITTLE    RUSSIA    (THE    UKRAINE).       By 

N.  BILACHEVSK.Y  ...          ...          ...          ...          ...          ...  15 

THE  PEASANT  ART  OF  RUSSIAN  POLAND.     By  MARYAN  WAWRZENIECKI  35 

THE  PEASANT  ART  OF  LITHUANIA.     By  MICHAEL  BRENSZTEJN     ...  47 


ILLUSTRATIONS  IN  COLOUR 

GREAT    RUSSIA 

NOS 

Peasant  Costume  from  Archangel      ...          ...  ...          ...          ...              i 

„  „  „  Novgorod  ...  22 

»  »  »  Tula  ...  39 

„  „  „  Vladimir  44 

Casket  in  Carved  Walrus  Ivory,  from  Archangel  ...          ...          ...          177 

Woman's  Head-dress  ornamented  with  Pearls  and  Precious  Stones, 

from  Kostroma    ...          ...          ...          ...          ...          ...          ...          178 

Embroidered  Bag  ornamented  with  Pearls     ...          ...          ...          ...          179 

Embroidered  Pincushion        ...          ...          ...          ...          ...          ...          180 

Painted  Front  of  a  Stall,  from  a  Church  in  Perm     ...          ...          ...        29IA 

LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

Designs  for  Silk  Embroidery              ...  ...  ...  ...  338-340 

Hand-woven  Material  used  for  Skirts  ...  ...  ...  37°-372 

Group  of  Pottery  from  Poltava          ...  ...  ...  ...  ...         409 

Earthenware  Plates  and  Bottle           ...  ...  ...  ...  444-446 

Painted  Wooden  Plates          ...          ...  ...  ...  ...  447-449 

Church  with  Nine  Cupolas     ...         ...  ...  ...  ...  ...         465 

Interior  of  a  Peasant's  House  in  Poltava  ...  ...  ...  ...         474 


ILLUSTRATIONS  IN  MONOTONE 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


PEASANT  COSTUMES  FROM 

Archangel 

Kaluga 

Kazan 

Kostroma 

Kursk 

Moscow 

Nij  ni-Novgorod 

Novgorod 

Olonetz         

Orel  

Penza 

Pskoff  

Riazan 

Smolensk 

Tamboff 

Tula  

Tver 

Vologda 

Yaroslavl 


NOS 


•••  2,3 

•••  4,5 
6 

...   7-9 

IO-I2 

Hi   IS 
16-19 

2O,  21 

23,  24 
25,  26 
27,28 
...  29 
30-34 

•••     35 
...      13 

36-38 

40-43 

...     45 

46-48 


NOS 


LACE,  EMBROIDERY,  ETC. 
Bedcurtain  Borders  from 

Kostroma...          ...          ...      65 

Moscow    55,  56,  58,  66,  67,  75 
Nij  ni-Novgorod    52,  54,  57,  60 

68,  74>  77 
St.  Petersburg       50,  51,  62,  78 

Tver          69,  84 

Vologda    ...          ...          ...     49 

Yaroslavl 6 1,  64,  70 

Bedcurtain  Trimmings  from 

Olonetz 8 1,  82 

Orel          53 

St.  Petersburg      ...          ...      71 

Yaroslavl  ...  59,  72 


Chasubles 

Collars 

Cross  in  Gold  and  Silk 

Curtain  from  Tver  ... 

Dolls,  Ancient 

Eucharistic  Cloths   . 


85,  ^3 
96-99 

...  108 

...  63 

114-116 

IIO,  III 


Hair  Ornaments  ("  Kosnik  ") 

100-103 
Hand-printed  Linen  ("Naboika") 

94,95 
Head-dresses  ...        104—107 

Icon  Panel     ...          ...       109,  112 

Towel- Borders  from 

Kaluga       ...  80,  83,  86-93 

Nij  ni-Novgorod  ...            73,  76 

Novgorod  ...            86—93 

St.  Petersburg  ...     79,  86-93 

METAL-WORK  AND  JEWELLERY 

Bowls,  silver  ...       137,  141 

Candlesticks,  copper  138—140 

Caskets,  iron  ...        173—175 

Chain,  silver  ...          ...    123 

Combs  ...          ...        132-135 

Crosses,  silver  and  copper 

117,  119,  122,  124 
Earrings  118,  121,  125-130 

Goblets         ...          ...          ...    152 

Inkstands  131,  136,  151,  155 

Jug   ...          152 

Padlocks,  iron  and  copper 

142-150 
Pendant,  silver          ...          ...    123 

Smoothing  -  irons,    copper 

Triptych,  copper  and  enamel       1 20 
POTTERY 

Dish  ...  ...          ...    1 60 

Jugs  ...          ...        161-163 

Tiles  ...          ...        156-159 

CARVED  IVORY 

Caskets    in  Walrus    Ivory 

164,  1 66,  169-172,  176 
Reading-pointers  228-235 

FURNITURE  AND  WOODCARVING 

Arm-chairs    ...          ...       293,  294 

Bed-boards    ...          ...       274,  275 

Benches         281-284 

vii 


NOS 


FURNITURE  AND  WOODCARVING 

(cant.) 
Bowls 
Box 
Brakes 
Cake-moulds 
Candlesticks 
Caskets 
Chairs 
Cornices 
Crosses 


253 

165 

...  258,259 
244-250 
219-222 
167,  168 
...  296,  297 
266-273 

122,  251,  254,  255 
295,  299 
181-187 
196-218 

Egg-dish       239 

Frame  ...          ...       252,  279 

Laundry  Beetles  ("Valki  ") 

188-195,  196-202,  240,  243 


Cupboards 

Distaffs  ("Pralki")... 


Looms 

Mug 

Panel 

Pew,  church 

Plaque 

Reading-desks 


Salt-boxes 

Scoops 

Sledges 


300,  302,  303 

256 

...  260 

289 

...  223 
287,  288 
folding  ("Analoi") 

261,  265 

.  225,  257,  262-264 

.  236-238,241,  242 

276-278 


NOS 

FURNITURE  AND  WOODCARVING 

(cant.) 

Spoons  ...          224,  226,  227 

Tables  ...  280,  285,  290,  292 

„          "candle"  286,  291,  301 

Window  frame  and  shutters        298 

CHURCHES,  HOUSES,  ETC. 

Belfries   in   North    Russia 

317,318 

Cemetery  in  Archangel         ...   319 
Churches  in  North  Russia 

315,  3i6 

Churches  in  Olonetz  ...  314 

Convent     Chapel     in     Arch- 
angel         ...          ...          ...  311 

Granary  in  North  Russia 
Houses  in  North  Russia 
Houses  in  Olonetz 
Houses  in  Vologda  ... 
Interior     of      Church 


•  309 

•  3°8 

304,  3°7 
...  306 


in 


Archangel 
Interior     of 

Vologda    . 
Stairway      to 

Archangel 
Stairway      to 

Olonetz     "• 
Windmill  in  North  Russia 


Church 
. 
House 

House 


n 


n 


n 


312 

313 
310 

305 
320 


VIII 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 


PEASANT  COSTUMES  AND  SCENES 
OF  PEASANT  LIFI 

Peasant  Family  from  Kieff 
Preparing  the  Hemp  in  Kieff 

323, 

Harvesting  in  Volhynia 
Group   of    Peasants    from 

"Kieff          

Peasant  Girl  Cleaning  Fish 
An  Alfresco  Meal  in  Kieff 
Peasant  Girls  from  Kieff... 
Peasant's  Summer  Costume 

from  Volhynia 
Peasant  Costumes  from  Kieff 


NOS 


322 

330 
324 

325 
326 

327 
328 

329 


Peasant  Girl 
Ukraine 


331,332,334-337 
from     South 

333 


EMBROIDERY  AND  TEXTILES 
Blouses,      Women's     Em- 
broidered          341-344 

Blouses,  Embroidery  for  353-359 
Tapestries,  Woollen 

360-369,  373-378 
lowels,  Embroidered        345-352 

MUSEUM  INTERIORS 
Kieff,  Volkskunst  Museum  at 

379-384 
Poltava>  ,,  „  385 


METAL-WORK  AND  JEWELLERY 

Church-crosses,  iron  386-389 

Pendants,  silver         ...      390-397 


POTTERY  AND  GLASSWARE 

Bottles,  glass  404, 

Bowls,  earthenware 
Flasks,          „ 
Jars,  „ 

Jugs,  glass          399-403, 
Jugs,  earthenware 
Miscellaneous  glassware 
Plates,     earthenware 


Stove-tiles,      „ 
Tumbler,  glass 


410, 


NOS 

405,  408 
421,  422 
419,  420 
417,418 

406,  407 

429,  434 

...  408 

411-416 

423-428 

430-433 
...   398 


FURNITURE  AND  WOODCARVING 


Bowl,  wooden 
Carriages,  parts  of 
Coffer,  wooden 
Dish,  wooden 
Gingerbread-moulds, 

Jug,  wooden 

Scoops,  wooden 

Sledge 

Sledge,  parts  of 

Spoon,  wooden 

Table  (i8th  century) 

PEASANTS'  HOUSES  IN 
Kieff,  South  Ukraine 


439 

462,  466-471 

...  442 
...  441 
wooden 

450-461 
...  443 

435-437,  440 

...  464 

466-471 

...  438 

...  463 


...  472 
j,         „  „        (interiors) 

475,  476 
Siedlce,  N.W.   Ukraine       ...    473 


IX 


RUSSIAN  POLAND 


NOS 


COSTUMES  FROM 

Kielce  

Lowicz 

POTTERY 

Bowls,  earthenware 

Jars,  „ 

Jugs, 

Plates,  „ 

Pot, 

FURNITURE 

Chairs  from  Kujavia 
Chest  from  Lowicz 
Dressers  from  Kujavia 

PEASANTS'  HOUSES,  ETC. 

Church  at  Smarzewice 
Cross  at  Strugiennice 
House  at  Kujavia 


478,  480 
...   479 


481,  482 
...  481 
...  481 

481,  482 
...  481 


484-486 

...   483 

487,  488 


...  497 
...  503 
...  496 


NOS 

PEASANTS'  HOUSES,  ETC.  (co«/.) 

House  at  Lowicz  493,  498 

„      „       „          (interiors) 

500,  501 
„      „  Modrzejow 

(entrance)  491 

„      „  Urzedow  492,  499 

„      „  Wojkowice 

(entrance)  490 

Mill  at  Piotrkow  ...   489 

Painted  Houses         ...       494,  495 
Well  at  Lowicz         ...          ...   502 

MISCELLANEOUS  ARTICLES 

Bridal  Crowns  ...          ...    506 

Crowns  worn  at  "  Harvest 

Home" 
Cut  Paper  Designs  321 


"Spider"  from  Lowicz 
Wooden  Toy 


507 

477 
508-517 

505 
504 


LITHUANIA 


COSTUMES,  ETC. 

Band  of  Coral  Beads,  from 

Suwalki     ...          ...          ...    523 

Dresses  from  Lower  Lithuania 

518,  520-522 

Embroidery  ...       524,  525 

Head-dress  ("  Namitka  ")  from 
Kovno       ...          ...          ...    519 

WoODCARVING  AND  PoTTERY 

Box-lids,  carved        ...       549,  550 
Crosses  from  Kovno,  carved 

542-545 


NOS 


WOODCARVING  AND  POTTERY 

Figures,  carved         ...       539,541 

Jar     ............  547 

Jug    ...  ...  548 

Musical  Instrument,  carved 

("Kanles")  ......  546 

Panel,  carved  ...          ...  540 

Spinning-board  and  Needle, 

carved        ...          ...          ...  538 

Spindles,  carved  526-535,  537 
Towel  -  rail,  carved 

("  Abrusienicze  ")  ...  536 


CUT    PAPER    DESIGN 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


THE  PEASANT  ART  OF  GREAT 
RUSSIA.  BY  PRINCESS  ALEXANDRE  SIDAMON- 
ERISTOFF  AND  MLLE.  N.  DE  CHABELSKOY. 

RUSSIA  is  an  immense  territory,  parts  of  it  unknown  even  in 
our  own  day,  embracing  every  kind  of  climate  and  many 
latitudes.     The  country  is  inhabited  by  people  of  different 
origins,  amongst  whom  the  Slavs  predominate,  and  whose 
manners  and  customs  are  of  the  greatest  antiquity. 
Situated   on    this  vast   plain  are  splendid  cities  ;    but,  though 
sometimes  monotonous,  it  has  delightful    scenery,  immense  forests 
and  lofty  mountains,  rich  in  precious  stones  and  all  kinds  of  minerals. 
Such  is  the  country  which  stretches  from  the  Arctic  Ocean  to  the 
Caspian  Sea,  with  the  Crimea  and  the  Caucasus  Mountains  in  the 
south,    vast   Siberia    on    the   Asiatic   boundary,   and    Great    Russia, 
White  Russia,  and  Little  Russia  (the  Ukraine)  in  the  centre. 

Glancing  back  over  the  manners  and  style  of  living  of  the 
Russian  people,  one  recognises  that  from  most  remote  times  they 
loved  to  decorate  all  objects  among  which  their  lives  were  passed  ; 
beginning  with  the  Church,  the  house,  vehicles,  sledges,  boats, 
clothes,  even  down  to  the  smallest  household  bowl.  In  this 
decoration  their  artistic  tastes — at  times  nai've — their  religious  feelings, 
and  their  deep  imagination  are  expressed. 

The  long-drawn-out  winter,  when  the  peasant  is  obliged  to 
cease  from  work  in  the  fields,  helps  to  develop  these  tastes  still  more. 
During  the  long  evenings  the  family  meets  by  the  stove,  each  one 
engaged  in  making  some  object  either  for  the  house  or  for  sale.  At 
the  time  when  factories  did  not  exist,  and  even  later  when  the 
number  of  them  was  insufficient  for  so  large  a  country,  the  difficulty 
of  communication,  caused  by  the  long  distances  and  the  poor  roads, 
contributed  largely  to  each  district  producing  for  itself  most  ot  the 
necessary  objects.  For  the  same  reason  these  objects  were  stamped 
with  a  character  and  originality  peculiarly  local.  Some  few  places 
specialised,  indeed,  according  to  the  natural  characteristics  of  the 
district.  Thus  the  northern  provinces,  so  rich  in  forests,  produced 
all  kinds  of  articles  in  wood,  among  other  things  plates,  carved  and 
painted.  In  the  villages  situated  beside  rivers  or  lakes,  boats  and  all 
the  necessary  appliances  for  fishing  were  made.  The  Government  of 
Riazan  was  noted  for  its  pottery,  its  clay  vessels,  and  its  enamelled 
bricks,  the  latter  being  used  in  the  decoration  of  churches  and  other 
buildings  and  for  stoves.  The  Government  of  Vladimir  possessed 
craftsmen  skilled  in  metal-work  and  enamelling,  as  well  as  engravers 
and  painters  who  produced  popular  pictures,  illustrated  books  and 
b-2.  3 


GREAT  RUSSIA 

manuscripts,  and  fashioned  icons  (holy  images).  The  Government 
of  Tula  was  renowned  for  its  arms  of  tempered  and  embossed  steel, 
jewellery,  and  all  kinds  of  articles  in  metal.  The  Government  of 
Yaroslavl,  so  rich  in  flax,  furnished  many  different  textiles,  from  the 
simple  household  cloth  to  that  of  the  finest  quality.  The  Govern- 
ment of  Archangel  has  always  carried  on  a  large  trade  in  furs,  and 
been  famous  for  its  boat-building  ;  also  for  clever  workmanship  in 
walrus  ivory. 

The  wool  of  domestic  animals  is  used  everywhere  to  make 
clothing  materials,  as  well  as  a  kind  of  thick  felt  for  winter  shoes. 
The  technical  knowledge  has  been  transmitted  by  one  generation  to 
another,  and  by  the  custom  of  the  family  working  together.  So 
that  every  peasant  is  not  only  a  cultivator  of  the  soil,  but  also  a 
craftsman. 

Besides  the  various  necessary  domestic  articles,  the  Russian 
women  excel  in  the  making  of  lace,  and,  above  all,  in  embroidery, 
which  plays  a  great  part  in  the  life  of  the  people.  The  largest 
number  of  designs  and  the  most  important  characteristic  motifs  are 
found  in  the  embroidery,  and  these  especially  help  in  the  study  of  the 
national  art.  It  is  in  a  great  measure  due  to  the  ingenious  work  of 
the  Russian  women  that  this  art  is  preserved  to  our  time. 

Russian  decorative  art  dates  from  very  early  ages.  In  spite  of 
the  successive  influences  of  contact  with  Asia,  with  Byzantium,  and 
with  the  West,  modified  by  the  requirements  of  native  customs,  it 
yet  retains  its  national  character  and  diversity  of  form,  and  has  had 
the  advantage  at  all  times  of  exponents  possessing  great  skill  and 
ability.  If  amongst  the  mass  of  designs  a  certain  number  are  found 
to  proceed  from  individual  inventiveness  and  imagination,  yet  the 
greater  part  have  a  particular  or  emblematic  significance,  which 
although  dimmed  and  lost  with  the  passage  of  time,  yet  preserves  the 
traditional  forms.  Besides  numerous  geometrical  patterns  and  con- 
ventional floral  motifs,  these  designs  represent  sacred  and  decorative 
trees,  fantastical  flowers,  symbolic  animals  such  as  lions,  unicorns, 
horses,  stags,  birds,  &c.,  often  facing  one  another,  and  having 
between  them  a  tree  or  a  sacred  vase.  Many  examples  represent 
people  with  raised  arms  and  outstretched  hands,  signifying 
the  gesture  of  religious  adoration,  habitual  to  heathen  as  well 
as  to  Christian  people  ;  sometimes  complete  compositions,  such  as 
religious  processions,  scenes  of  sacrifices,  of  temples,  and  of  idols,  are 
depicted. 

Among  the  most  general  subjects  are  the  fabulous  birds  called 
Sirin  and  n^f/conost,  who  assume  woman's  form,  and  who,  according 
to  the  legend,  live  in  Paradise  and  delight  the  saints  with  their  songs. 

4 


GREAT  RUSSIA 

One  of  the  symbolic  signs  very  much  in  favour  was  the  svastika, 
known  in  the  most  remote  period  of  ancient  India,  a  sign  of  good 
augury  and  especially  of  good  luck.  It  was  freely  employed  in  the 
decoration  of  all  kinds  of  articles. 

Later  on  the  Czar  Peter  the  Great,  with  his  reforms,  had  a 
marked  influence  on  design,  and  the  subjects  became  more  realistic. 
Attempts  were  made  to  represent  whole  landscapes,  with  palaces, 
festivals,  and  people  in  the  costume  of  the  time,  as  we  see  in  the 
accompanying  illustration  (No.  78),  which  depicts  a  firework 
display  at  a  fete. 

The  conditions  of  family  life,  which  dedicated  woman  entirely 
to  the  home,  not  allowing  her  to  take  part  in  social  affairs,  con- 
tributed still  more  to  interest  her  in  handicraft.  In  pagan  times  the 
personality  of  the  woman  was  held  to  be  equal  to  that  of  the  man. 
She  had  not  only  her  rights  in  the  family  life,  but  she  possessed  also 
her  social  rights.  She  had  control  of  her  property,  and  she  joined 
in  the  chase  just  as  a  warrior  took  part  in  battle.  All  was  changed 
with  the  advent  of  Christianity.  The  literature  and  ideas  of 
Byzantium  had  more  effect  on  the  women  than  on  the  men,  and 
consequently  on  home  life.  The  ascetic  teachings  of  Byzantium,  based 
on  the  complete  perversity  of  Byzantine  society,  were  transported 
with  the  religion  into  Russia,  when  the  social  life  was  still  young 
and  scarcely  formed,  and  served  as  a  base  for  a  monastic  life,  as  well 
as  for  the  ideas  of  seclusion  and  retirement  from  social  intercourse. 
Thus  were  created  the  austere  conditions  of  the  life  of  the  terem,  a 
part  of  the  house  reserved  for  women  and  exclusively  for  family  life. 
This  retired  existence  became  more  and  more  strict  in  proportion  to 
the  social  position.  Except  for  a  few  very  simple  pleasures,  which 
enlivened  the  monotony,  needlework  was  the  favourite  occupation 
as  well  as  amusement.  In  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries, 
in  the  houses  of  the  noblemen  and  the  Czars,  one  or  more  rooms  were 
always  reserved  near  the  terem  for  needlework,  thus  forming  ateliers 
where  the  women  in  the  service  of  the  family  worked  under  the 
direction  of  the  mistress  of  the  house. 

The  mass  of  the  people  came  less  strongly  under  the  influence 
of  these  teachings,  and,  while  they  accepted  Christianity,  they  still 
retained  the  advantages  of  pagan  rule,  which  explains  the  presence 
in  the  ornamentations  of  the  many  subjects  which  bear  traces  of  the 
earlier  belief. 

Among  the  numerous  embroidered  articles  it  is  on  the  borders 
of  the  bedcurtains  and  towels  especially  that  the  most  interesting  and 
characteristic  designs  are  to  be  found.  The  bedcurtains  were  used  to 
decorate  the  bed  and  the  bedstead  as  well  as  the  backs  of  the  sledges 

5 


GREAT  RUSSIA 

and  wedding  conveyances,  or  on  the  occasions  of  the  traditional 
carnival  processions,  and  in  this  case  the  decoration  was  completed 
by  towels  attached  to  the  dougas  (bow  of  the  shaft). 

Towels,  in  addition  to  their  customary  use,  served  from  the 
earliest  times  as  adjuncts  to  religious  worship,  when  they  were 
employed  to  decorate  the  temples  of  the  idols,  or  were  hung  from 
the  sacred  trees  as  votive  offerings.  We  still  see,  as  a  relic  of  the 
same  custom,  images  and  crosses  thus  decorated,  and  the  people  bring 
their  towels  as  offerings  to  the  church.  At  the  present  time  towels  are 
used  also  to  decorate  the  izba  (peasant  homes),  for  draping  mirrors 
and  images  ;  or,  spread  out  along  the  walls,  they  form  a  kind  of 
simple  art  gallery  for  the  Russian  peasant. 

Unfortunately  all  these  practices  are  dying  out  more  and 
more  every  year,  in  proportion  to  the  increase  in  the  number  of 
factories,  the  products  of  which  are  causing  the  hand-made  articles 
to  quickly  disappear,  making  them  dearer  and  more  difficult  to 
obtain. 

Thanks  to  museums  and  private  collections,  which  have  been 
established  just  in  time,  a  great  number  of  the  most  varied  articles 
belonging  to  the  household  have  been  preserved,  and  they  throw  a 
light  on  life  in  past  centuries  and  reflect  the  qualities  peculiar  to 
Slavo-Russian  art.*  However,  even  now  there  still  exist  in  the  vast 
districts  of  Great  Russia  many  out-of-the-world  spots,  especially 
towards  the  north,  far  from  the  railways.  In  the  heart  of  these  huge 
forests,  and  away  from  all  contact  with  civilisation,  the  life  still 
retains  its  primitive  and  local  character,  and  continues  in  accordance 
with  the  rites  and  traditions  of  the  past.  Here  the  peasant  has  not 
yet  abandoned  his  picturesque  costume,  and  in  his  typical  i-zba  a 
corresponding  interior  is  to  be  found.  Here,  too,  may  still  be  seen 
the  old  churches  of  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  centuries,  with  their 
many  cupolas,  still  preserving  the  old  images  adorned  with  silk  and 
gold  work,  or  painted  by  a  master  hand,  and  covered  with  splendid 
chasubles  embellished  with  precious  stones  and  real  pearls.  The 
sacristies  of  these  churches  often  contain  real  treasures  of  art  and 
archaeology  among  the  priestly  vestments. 

In  these  places  the  people  still  use  in  their  daily  life  many 
original  articles  which,  although  of  more  recent  execution,  are  made 

*  Many  governments  and  towns  now  have  museums  containing  antiquities  of  the 
particular  district.  There  is  the  Alexander  III.  Museum  at  St.  Petersburg  ;  the  Imperial 
Historical  Museum  at  Moscow,  to  which  has  been  added  the  Schoukine  Museum  ; 
while  the  Stroganoff  Arts  and  Industries  School  contains  real  national  treasures. 
Moreover,  there  are  numerous  private  collections,  the  most  striking  of  which  is  that  of 
the  Princess  Sidamon-Eristoffand  Mile,  de  Chabelskoy,  from  which  most  of  the  illustrations 
to  this  article  have  been  taken. 

6 


GREAT  RUSSIA 

in  accordance  with  the  old  traditional  forms.  The  Russian  people 
are  carpenters  by  instinct  ;  every  peasant  is  accordingly  able  to  build 
his  izba,  which  for  centuries  has  always  been  constructed  in  the  same 
way,  occasionally  of  brick,  but  generally  of  large,  rounded  beams, 
thanks  to  the  proximity  of  the  forest.  These  izbas,  with  their  slight 
roofing,  have  for  exterior  decoration  carved  wooden  cornices  ;  the 
chief  beam  which  supports  the  roof  often  ends  in  the  form  of  a  rose, 
a  horse's  head,  or  a  conventional  bird.  All  these  decorative  portions 
are  usually  painted  in  various  colours,  which  give  a  bright  appearance 
to  the  cottages. 

The  simple  furniture  consists  of  seats,  either  fixed  or  movable,  a 
few  tables,  a  sideboard  for  the  display  of  plates  and  dishes,  and  some 
chests  embellished  with  metal-work  or  painting.  The  peasants  delight 
to  decorate  the  under  sides  of  the  lids  of  these  coffers  with  popular 
engravings.  A  great  oven  in  stone  is  built  in  such  a  way  that 
one  part  forms  a  large  flat  surface  on  which  the  whole  family 
sleep  in  the  depth  of  winter.  In  the  right-hand  corner  of  the  wall, 
called  the  krasningol  (the  beautiful  corner),  are  placed  one  or  more  holy 
images  or  icons  before  which  wax  tapers  or  little  oil  lamps  burn, 
forming  a  family  altar.  Sometimes  there  are  a  few  engravings  either  of 
religious  subjects  or  representing  popular  heroes,  a  loom  for  weaving, 
and  a  few  household  utensils.  This  is  the  usual  simple  appearance 
of  the  generality  of  the  houses,  with  a  barn  or  stable,  and  a  little 
enclosure  round.  For  fear  of  fire  the  houses  are  placed  a  good 
distance  apart  from  each  other,  but  are  grouped  in  large  villages 
with  a  wide  road  running  through  the  centre. 

Old  customs  are  kept  up  in  their  entirety  in  many  of  the  villages, 
and  religious  and  civil  ceremonies  are  still  carried  out  according 
to  the  ancestral  traditions,  sometimes  so  full  of  meaning  and 
simple  poetry.  The  people  still  retain  the  many  observances 
in  all  the  important  events  of  family  life — birth,  marriage,  and 
burial — as  well  as  the  different  customs  incidental  to  Christmas, 
Easter,  &c. 

But  especially  are  ancient  ceremonies  adhered  to  on  the  occasion 
of  weddings,  such  as  the  use  of  the  great  loaf,  a  kind  of  decorated, 
and  sometimes  gilded  cake,  a  symbol  of  prosperity,  as  well  as  many 
gifts  which  the  maiden  is  obliged  to  offer  to  her  fiance,  and  to  all  the 
relatives  and  guests  according  to  the  degree  of  relationship  or  to  their 
social  position.  Tradition  exacts  that  all  these  presents  should  be 
the  actual  work  of  the  bride,  as  a  proof  of  her  ability  and  industry. 
This  is  why  provident  young  girls  prepare  their  presents  a  long 
time  in  advance.  For  this  purpose  the  young  maidens  in  every 
village  meet  together  at  one  another's  houses  in  turn  to  work  ;  these 

7 


GREAT  RUSSIA 

little  gatherings,  much  resorted   to  by  the  young   people,  end  with 
songs,  games,  and  dances. 

The  wedding  presents  consist  chiefly  of  towels  with  wide 
borders,  with  a  woven  or  embroidered  design,  and  chirinkas  (a  kind 
of  pocket-handkerchief  made  from  a  square  piece  of  material  em- 
broidered handsomely  either  at  the  corners  or  all  round). 

The  custom  of  giving  wedding  presents  was  very  widespread  in 
the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries,  not  only  among  the  peasants, 
who  still  preserve  it,  but  also  among  the  noblemen  and  even  the 
Czars,  only  in  this  case  the  chirinkas  were  more  handsome,  being  of 
silk  or  muslin,  richly  embroidered  in  gold,  and  decorated  with  fringes 
and  tassels.  Sometimes,  instead  of  embroidery,  they  were  embellished 
with  wide  gold  lace,  interwoven  with  real  pearls.  The  chirinka  was 
both  an  object  for  display  and  one  of  the  indispensable  adjuncts  of  the 
Russian  woman's  wardrobe,  the  most  obvious  and  the  favourite 
article  ;  and  it  was,  moreover,  the  custom  always  to  hold  it  in  the 
hand  when  going  to  church,  or  on  visits,  or  during  all  ceremonies. 

The  national  costume  varied  greatly  in  different  governments, 
nearly  every  district  and  village  having  its  special  dress.  The  women 
particularly  displayed  their  clothes,  and  whether  they  were  hand- 
somely decorated  or  made  in  the  simplest  manner  they  were  always 
covered  with  a  profusion  of  embroidery.  The  indoor  dress  consisted 
chiefly  of  the  paneva,  a  skirt  of  thick  check  woollen  material,  and 
the  sarafan,  a  kind  of  skirt  with  or  without  a  bodice,  pleated  or 
gathered  and  buttoned  in  front,  but  always  sleeveless.  That  is  why 
in  their  lingerie  the  women  included  short  bodices  with  sleeves  of  a 
different  colour  to  the  sarafan,  very  much  decorated,  and  forming  one 
of  the  principal  articles  of  the  wardrobe.  The  peasants  generally 
made  these  in  white  linen  with  an  embroidered  neckband,  as  well  as 
with  wide  embroidered  trimmings  on  the  shoulders,  or  in  linen  printed 
by  hand.  When  means  allowed,  the  sleeves  were  made  of  silk, 
brocade,  or  velvet,  and  were  sometimes  covered  with  heavy  gold 
embroidery.  Different  in  shape,  these  sleeves  were  of  very  fine 
material,  sometimes  four  or  five  metres  long,  and  were  then  worn 
gathered  up  on  the  arm.  The  women  often  wore  wide  aprons,  with 
or  without  sleeves,  and  generally  of  linen,  sometimes  entirely  covered 
with  embroidery. 

But  it  was  on  the  head-dress — the  kokochniks,  the  kikas,  the 
povoiniks,  the  crowns  and  the  diadems — that  most  thought  was 
bestowed,  and  this  was  distinguished  by  the  greatest  abundance  of 
embroidered  designs.  These  head-dresses  were  extravagant,  even 
amongst  the  peasants,  and  were  made  in  cloth-of-gold,  in  damask,  in 
velvet  embroidered  with  gold,  and  sometimes  ornamented  with  real 

8 


GREAT  RUSSIA 

pearls  and  precious  stones.  Those  of  the  young  girls,  in  the  form 
of  a  crown  or  a  diadem,  were  worn  so  as  to  show  the  hair.  This 
was  considered  as  a  beauty  and  a  right  belonging  exclusively  to  the 
maidens,  whilst  married  women  were  obliged  to  hide  their  hair 
under  the  head-dress.  A  married  woman  who  wore  her  hair 
uncovered  was  considered  to  be  lacking  in  modesty.  Native  pearls 
were  generally  much  sought  after  in  Russia,  both  Eastern  and  fresh- 
water pearls  being  found  in  the  great  rivers  and  lakes  in  the  North. 
Mother-of-pearl,  either  carved  or  rounded,  was  also  popular,  and  in 
some  villages  pearls  were  used  with  coloured  glass. 

For  out-of-door  garments  the  women  wore  fur  capes  in  the 
winter,  and  in  the  summer  short  coats,  or  capes  without  fur,  made 
of  plain  cloth,  damask,  or  cloth-of-gold.  Over  the  head-dress  were 
worn  long  and  wide  veils  (fatas)  of  white  muslin,  interwoven  with 
silk  floral  designs  or  embroidered  in  gold,  which  fell  partly  over 
the  face.  Sometimes  they  were  made  in  heavy  silken  material, 
embroidered  in  gold  and  ornamented  with  lace  and  gold  fringe.  In 
some  villages  they  were  made  of  linen,  embroidered  at  the  edges, 
just  like  the  towels,  but  distinguished  from  them  by  the  embroidery 
on  the  forehead. 

Amongst  the  wearing  apparel  of  daily  use,  mention  should  again 
be  made  of  the  little  coats,  embroidered  in  gold  or  made  in  rich 
materials,  the  head-shawls,  often  embroidered,  and  the  slippers  and 
gloves,  as  well  as  the  waistbands  woven  in  silk  or  embroidered  with 
gold.  In  many  districts  waistbelts,  woven  by  hand  in  wool  of  varied 
colours,  were  worn,  in  the  fringes  of  which  were  fastened  chicken 
bones.  Young  girls  put  these  belts  under  their  pillows,  and  at  the 
first  cock-crow  the  bone  began,  they  declared,  to  twitter  like 
swallows,  thus  warning  the  sleepers  that  it  was  time  to  begin  work. 

Small  articles  of  dress,  such  as  chains  of  filigree  work  with 
crosses,  which  were  worn  as  an  ornament  round  the  neck,  all  kinds 
of  collars,  rings,  earrings,  in  gold  or  silver,  or  sometimes  made  of 
real  pearls  threaded  on  hair  and  arranged  in  different  ways  by  the 
women  themselves,  all  these  things  were  quaint  and  much  prized. 

The  men's  costumes,  duller  and  more  uniform,  consisted,  among 
the  peasants,  of  caftans  of  different  kinds  and  of  quiet  colours,  and  of 
capes  of  fur  or  of  sheepskins,  made  in  such  a  way  that  the  fur  was 
on  the  inside  and  the  skin  on  the  outside.  In  the  house  they  wore 
trousers  of  linen,  printed  by  hand,  or  of  homespun  cloth  ;  shirts, 
either  coloured  or  of  white  linen,  embroidered  at  the  edge  as  well 
as  on  the  collar  and  sleeves  ;  tall  felt  hats  or  round  fur  bonnets  and 
caps.  For  footgear,  in  addition  to  boots  of  leather  and  felt,  the 
usual  article  was  the  lapot,  a  kind  of  shoe  made  from  the  inner  bark 

9 


GREAT  RUSSIA 

of  the  birch  and  lime  trees,  cut  into  thongs,  and  which  each  man 
cut  for  himself.  This  kind  of  bast-work  was  used  to  make  a  large 
variety  of  baskets,  salt-cellars  and  other  small  articles,  as  well  as 
large  pans  in  which  to  keep  flour  and  bread.  Milk-pans  and 
earthenware  vessels  were  covered  with  strips  of  bark,  and  by  placing 
these  strips  very  close  together  the  vessels  were  made  almost 
unbreakable. 

Amongst  the  materials  made  in  the  homes  must  be  mentioned 
figured  and  dyed  cloths,  as  well  as  the  "  naboika "  cloth,  hand- 
printed by  means  of  small  wood-blocks  with  designs  cut  in  relief, 
which  were  coated  over  with  vegetable  colours,  very  fast  and 
blending  harmoniously  (Nos.  94  and  95).  The  cloths  are  of  great 
interest  owing  to  the  designs  being  very  old,  for  the  "  naboika  "  was 
known  in  Russia  as  early  as  the  twelfth  century.  It  was  used  not 
only  for  clothes,  but  also  for  religious  garments,  flags,  pavilion  curtains, 
table-covers,  and  even  for  bookbindings.  The  first  to  use  it  were 
probably  the  painters  of  the  icons,  as  being  the  most  expert  in 
the  mixing  of  colours  and  in  ornamentation  ;  but  later  on  it  was 
employed  by  craftsmen  who  went  from  village  to  village.  The 
designs  on  these  cloths,  in  addition  to  the  subjects  and  decorations 
already  mentioned,  reproduced  the  motifs  employed  in  the  more 
handsome  materials,  in  the  decorations  of  books,  and  in  popular 
engravings.  But  all  the  subjects  were  adapted  to  suit  the  demands 
of  the  district,  giving  them  the  special  characteristics  of  the  pro- 
ductions of  the  Russian  people.  It  is  because  of  the  national  spirit 
embodied  in  these  designs  carved  in  the  wood  (sometimes  faced  in 
metal)  that  these  blocks  for  printing  cloth  are  so  much  appreciated 
by  archaeologists,  as  also  are  the  carved  wooden  moulds  for  ginger- 
bread, which  are  also  worthy  of  study. 

Gingerbread  was  largely  used  in  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth, 
and  even  the  eighteenth  centuries,  not  only  as  a  national  article  of 
food,  but  also  as  a  much  appreciated  gift.  According  to  the 
meaning  and  subject  of  the  design,  it  was  offered  at  birth,  wedding, 
and  even  at  funeral  feasts.  There  were  also  gingerbreads  "  of 
honour,"  which,  made  to  order  and  of  exceptional  size,  were 
sometimes  more  than  a  yard  wide,  and  weighed  as  much  as 
150  Ibs.  They  were  offered  as  a  welcome,  a  gift  of  honour,  by 
workmen  to  their  patrons,  by  the  young  to  the  old  as  a  sign  of 
humility  and  respect.  Thus,  on  the  occasion  of  the  birth  of  the 
Czar  Peter  the  Great,  many  huge  gingerbreads  of  different  designs 
were  presented  to  his  father,  amongst  them  one  bearing  the  arms 
of  the  city  of  Moscow  ;  two  others,  each  weighing  100  Ibs.,  with 
enormous  double-headed  eagles ;  one  in  the  form  of  a  badge, 

10 


GREAT  RUSSIA 

weighing  125  Ibs.;  and  others  in  the  shape  01  a  duck,  a  parrot,  or 
a  dove  ;  and  great  decorative  gingerbreads  representing  the  Kremlin, 
with  its  turrets,  surrounded  by  horse-soldiers,  and  so  forth. 
Altogether  there  were  offered  to  him  on  this  occasion  more  than 
one-hundred-and-twenty  gingerbreads  and  other  sweet  dishes.  This 
same  custom  was  also  very  widespread  among  the  nobles  and  among 
the  peasants. 

All  the  illustrations  which  accompany  this  article  are  well 
worthy  ot  more  serious  study  than  the  space  available  here  allows, 
but  we  have  endeavoured  to  give  a  general  idea  of  the  national 
art  of  Russia  and  the  character  of  the  country.  The  original  form 
and  the  beauty  of  Russian  decoration  have,  indeed,  attracted  atten- 
tion and  interest  all  over  Europe,  and  at  the  same  time  there  has 
become  manifest  in  Russia  a  very  strong  desire  to  revive  the  national 
art,  so  long  abandoned  and  kept  in  subjection  by  Western  imitation. 
The  last  fifteen  or  twenty  years  have  seen  a  new  activity  spring 
up,  the  object  of  which  is  to  revive  the  old  rural  industries  in  the 
villages  where  the  peasants  still  preserve  the  ideas  and  methods  ot 
the  old  craftsmen,  and  there  is  growing  up  from  this  movement 
a  new  branch  of  industry  which  is  becoming  more  important  year 
by  year. 


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GREAT    RUSSIA 


44     PKASANT    CO  STUMP:    FROM    VLADIMIR 


en 

o 


Q 
Z 


Q 
O 
O 


o 


s 
o 

OS 


< 

I— 

in 


o 


W 
2 


O 
O 


W 


If 

Q 


en 
O 
OS 


s 

O 


CO 

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S 
D 


CO 

CO 


H 
< 
W 
(^ 
O 


H 
z 

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GREAT  RUSSIA 


49       DRAWN-THREAD    BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    VOLOGDA 


-  9M>' !'•(*/ 

f&fw-          /::::;:?/  • 
&**  •        -«••••:•••  '   £ 
;;••,'.'.    . 


50      BORDER   OF   BEDCURTAIN,   FROM    ST.    PETERSBURG 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


;i       BORDER    OF    BEDCVRTAIN,    FROM  ST      PETERSBURG 


52       DRAWN-THREAD   BORDER   OF   BEDCURTAIN,   FROM   NIJNI-NOVGOROD 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


53       LACE    FOR    TRIMMING    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    OREL 


:v  . 

:;::• ;;::::«':  -««&::::     %y: »  5«5!»ft 

•••"•"•**»»««*«*»»B«»»f  •»•***'• 


54      BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    NIJ  NI-NOVGOROD 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


55    AND    56      BORDERS    OF    BEDCURTAINS,    FROM    MOSCOW 


57      LACE   BORDER   OF   BEDCURTAIN,    FROM   NIJNI-NOVGOROD 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIX,    FROM    MOSCOW 


^^^^^^^^^^M^^^^M^^ 


59      DKAWN-THREAD    TRIMMING    OF    HEDCURTAIN,    FROM    YAROSLAVL 


•  „  •_  ;*:i*'r*  '  (•$£    ;j:8£  :'  '".'*•••* ^  j.'-    :'.:.»'«'*«.s^VVf*i!^-^  ;  ^^     '^^J:'*v?-*!-*-V-'    -'•'•^'''"•:-.  .'''  .'..'iyj^%  ;  '  $3$  '?. 
•  '•.-?.  o  ^r..\  «.  '-•  ":     t'*        ^i;f;."U  «^.>  r;--..;^;'  •••''<  '•'';:;•  '^   >•**  -  >-:.--  f:  *       v.  '  ^  .-'•'  '  '"-.'/M  ^  *'•••.. '  '-v/  .;:!:i  .;!•;.  "'i;:' ";?  -.;-^  ^.  t;t^  *•  v  ••/*  ^ 


6O      LACE    BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    NIJNI-NOVGOROD 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


6l        BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    YAROSLAVL 


62       DRAWN-THREAD    BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    ST.    PETERSBURG 


63      CURTAIN    IN   DRAWN-THREAD    ON   SILK,  FROM   TVER 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


64      DRAWN-THREAD    BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    YAROSLAVL 


65       LACE    BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    KOSTROMA 


66      BORDER   OF    BEDCURTAIN,   FROM   MOSCOW 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


67       BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    MOSCOW 


68       DRAWN  THREAD    BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN    IN    COLOURED    SILKS,    FROM    NIJNI-NOVGOROD 


" • 


69      EMBROIDERED   SILK    AND    LACE   BORDER   OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM   TVER 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


70       DRAWN-THREAD    BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    YAROSLAVL 


DRAWN-THREAD    TRIMMING    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    ST.    PETERSBURG 


72       DRAWN-THREAD   TRIMMING   OF  BEDCURTAIN,   FROM   YAROSLAVL 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


73      LACE   BORDER    OF    TOWEL,    FROM    NI]  NI -NOVGOROD 


74       DRAWN-THREAD    BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    NIJNI-NOVGOROD 


K^,"'  " u:t 1 1  ilw"^^r(»S5f^ r^j^MBKS"«' 'vinmn "K^aa, T  •  :-'---;-:;i:^1»^llifCs'WMMHM»'»iHI 

75      DRAWN-THREAD   BORDER    OF   BEDCURTAIN     FROM    MOSCOW 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


76       LACE    BORDER    OF    TOWEL,    FROM    NIJ  NI-NOVGOROD 


77       DRAWN-THREAD    BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    NIJ  NI-NOVGOROD 


78      DRAWN-THREAD   BORDER   OF   BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    ST.   PETERSBURG 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


79       BORDER    OF    TOWEL    EMBROIDERED    ON 
LINEN,    FROM    ST.    PETERSBURG 


8O      BORDER    OF    TOWEL    EMBROIDERED    ON 
LINEN,    FROM    KALUGA 


8l       TRIMMING    OF    BEDCURTAIN    EMBROIDERED    ON    LINEN,    FROM    OLONETZ 


82      TRIMMING   OF   BEDCURTAIN   EMBROIDERED   ON   LINEN,   FROM   OLONETZ 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


83       BORDER    OF    TOWEL    EMBROIDERED    ON    LINEN,    FROM    KALUGA 


84       EMBROIDERED    BORDER    OF    BEDCURTAIN,    FROM    TVER 


85      TRIMMING   OF   CHASUBLE    EMBROIDERED    ON   LINEN 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


86   TO    93       BORDERS    OF    TOWELS    EMBROIDERED    ON    LINEN,    FROM    KALUGA,    NOVGOROD,    AND    ST.    PETERSBURG 


u: 

O 


U! 

O 
J 


o 
o 


o 

as 
U. 


CO 
CO 


H 
< 

W 
C* 

o 


O 
J 
O 

u 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


96  AND  97     COLLARS   IN  CUT  MOTHER-OF-PEARL 

98  AND  99     COLLARS   IN  GOLD   THREAD  EMBROIDERY 

ORNAMENTED  WITH  STONES  AND   PEARLS 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


100  TO   103      HAIR  ORNAMENTS   ("KOSNIK") 
WORN   BY  YOUNG  GIRLS 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


104  TO   107     HEAD-DRESSES  WORN  BY  WOMEN    FROM 
VLADIMIR,   MOSCOW,   KALUGA,  AND  NOVGOROD 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


108   AND    109     CROSS  EMBROIDERED   IN  GOLD  AND  SILK 
AND  EMBROIDERED   ICON   PANEL  FROM   NORTH   RUSSIA 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


IIO       EUCHARISTIC    CLOTH    EMBROIDERED    IN    GOLD 
AND    SILK    ON    SATIN 


III       EUCHARISTIC    CLOTH    EMBROIDERED    IN    GOLD 
AND    SILK    ON    SATIN 


112       ICON    PANEL   EMBROIDERED    IN    GOLD    AND 
SILK    ON    SATIN 


[13       ORNAMENT  ;OF    CHASUBLE    EMBROIDERED  _IN 
'  GOLD   AND    SILK 


< 

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CO 

Pd 
H 

W 


en 
Q 
O 

2 
w 


ffi 
H 
fa 
O 

w 
s 

D 
H 
tn 

O 
O 


H 
Z 

a 
w 

en 

en 
U) 


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j 
J 
O 
Q 

H 
Z 

w 


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H 

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H 
W 
O 


B 

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o 

o 


< 

t/3 

H 

w 
3 


a 


x 
a 

- 

o 
0 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


• 


V  A  "' 


125   TO   130      SILVER-GILT  AND  ENAMELLED 
EARRINGS   SET  WITH  STONES  AND  PEARLS 


< 

CO 

H 

W 
O 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


142  TO   150     IRON  AND  COPPER  PADLOCKS 


w 
u 
f 


•o 


GREAT   RUSSIA 


156  TO   159     EARTHENWARE  TILES 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


160  TO   163      EARTHENWARE  COVERED  DISH   AND  JUGS 


in 
in 
D 


H 
< 
W 
« 

o 


3 
PS 


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CO 


H 
< 
W 

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o    . 

s£ 

o 

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O 
X 


GREAT   RUSSIA 


1/4   IRON  CASKET 


1/5   IRON  CASKET 


176   CASKET  IN  CARVED  WALRUS  IVORY,  FROM  ARCHANGEL 


GREAT   RUSSIA 


[77    CA>KET  IN  CARVED  WALRUS  IVOR\, 
FROM   \KCIIAM:F.I. 


179      EMI:kuMiF.REI>    BAG    ORNA 
MKNTEI>    WITH    1'EARI.S 


178    WOMAN'S  HEAD-DRESS  ORNAMENTED  WITH 
PEARLS  AND  PRECIOUS  STONES,  FROM  KOSTROMA 


ISO      EMBROIDERED    PINCUSHION 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


I8l    TO    IS/      CARVED    AND    PAINTED    WOODEN    DISTAFFS    ("PRALKl' 


GREAT   RUSSIA 


1 88    TO    195       CARVED    WOODEN    LAUNDRY    BEETLES    ("VALKl") 


mU  JP& 


196    TO    2O2       CARVED    WOODEN    LAUNDRY    BEETLES    ("VALKl")    AND    DISTAFFS    ("PRALKl1    ) 


GREAT   RUSSIA 


2O3    TO    2l8      CARVED    WOODEN    DISTAFFS    ("PRALKl") 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


219    TO    221       CARVED    AND    PAINTED    WOODEN    CANDLESTICKS 


222    AND    223      CARVED    AND    PAINTED    WOODEN    CANDLESTICK    AND    PLAQUE 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


225       PAINTED    WOODEN    SALT-BOX 


226      CARVED    WOODEN 
SPOON 


224      CARVED 
WOODEN    SPOON 


227       CARVED    WOODEN    SPOON 


>  ~  .x 


228   TO   235      READING-POINTERS   IN    CARVED    WALRUS   IVORY 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


236      CARVED    WOODEN    SCOOP 


237       CARVED    WOODEN    SCOOP 


238       CARVED    WOODEN    SCOOP 


239       CARVED    WOODEN    EGG-DISH 


24O      CARVED    WOODEN  24!    AND    242       CARVED    WOODEN    SCOOPS 

LAUNDRY  BEETLE 


243      CARVED    WOODEN 
LAUNDRY  BEETLE 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


244   TO    250      CARVED    WOODEN    CAKE-MOULDS 


00 

in 


H 

< 

W 
* 
o 


o 

K 
O 

w 

o 
o 

o 

W 


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O 

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4 

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o 

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o 

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X 

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o 
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W 


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O 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


2/6       CARVED    WOODEN    SLEDGE    FROM    VOLOGDA 


2/7      CARVED    WOODEN    SLEDGE 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


278       CARVED    WOODEN    SLEDGE    FROM    VOLOGDA 


279    AND    280      CARVED    AND    PAINTED    WOODEN    FRAME    AND   CARVED   TABLE,    FROM    YAROSLAVL 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


28l   CARVED  BENCH 


282  TO  284   CARVED  BENCHES 


285   CARVED  TABLE 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


286     CARVED  "CANDLE"  TABLE 


287       CARVED    READING-DESK 
FROM    ARCHANGEL 


>:  x  x  x  ; 


K: 


x  x  .x  x  x  x  x  x 


1 


288      CARVED    READING-DESK 
FROM    YAROSLAVL 


289      CARVED    BACK    OF    A    CHURCH    PEW    FROM   VOLOGDA 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


290   CARVED  TABLE  FROM  YAROSLAVL 


291   CARVED  "CANDLE"  TABLE  FROM  YAROSLAVL 


GRKAT    RUSSIA 


2  9  i  A      PAINTED     FRONT     OF     A 
STALL,   FROM   A   CHURCH    IN    PERM 


GREAT    RUSSIA 


2()2       CARVED^TABLE 


293    AND    294       CARVED    ARMCHAIRS 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


295       CARVED    CUPBOARD 


296    AND    297      CARVED    CHAIRS 


in 
in 


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04 
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GREAT  RUSSIA 


3OO       CARVED    WEAVING-LOOM 


301        CARVED    "CANDLE"    TABLE    WITH    METAL    FITTINGS,    FROM    YAROSLAVL 


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W 
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6 
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GREAT  RUSSIA 


304     PEASANT'S  HOUSE  IN  OLONETZ 


305       ENTRANCE    STAIRWAY   TO    A    PEASANT'S    HOUSE    IN    OLONETZ 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


306     PEASANT'S  HOUSE  IN  VOLOGDA 


307     PEASANT'S  HOUSE  IN  OLONETZ 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


308     PEASANT'S  HOUSE  IN  NORTH  RUSSIA 


309      GRANARY    IN    NORTH    RUSSIA 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


310       ENTRANCE    STAIRWAY    TO    A    PEASANT'S    HOUSE    IN    ARCHANGEL 


311       CORNER    OF   A    CONVENT    CHAPEL    IN    ARCHANGEL 


GREAT   RUSSIA 


312   INTERIOR  OF  A  VILLAGE  CHURCH  IN  ARCHANGEL 


313   INTERIOR  OF  A  VILLAGE  CHURCH  IN  VOLOGDA 


GREAT  RUSSIA 


314      CHURCH    IN    OLONETZ   (DATE    I/l8) 


315       VILLAGE    CHURCH    IN    NORTH    RUSSIA 


316      CHURCH    IN    NORTH    RUSSIA 


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c. 


321        CUT    PAPER    DESIGN 


-v 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE 
UKRAINE) 


THE  PEASANT  ART  OF  LITTLE  RUSSIA 
(THE  UKRAINE).    BY  N.  BILACHEVSKY. 

SOME  twenty  or  thirty  years  ago  the  whole  of  the  large 
territory  of  the  Ukraine,  every  corner  ot  it,  was  still  rich  in 
peasant  art  ;  indeed  it  may  be  truly  said  the  Ukrainians  were 
an  artistic  race.  The  distinction  between  the  lower  and  the 
upper  classes,  so  characteristic  a  feature  of  the  feudal  system  then 
in  existence  in  the  Ukraine,  had  as  its  result  the  preservation  by  the 
peasantry  of  the  peculiar  ancient  customs,  beliefs,  and  modes  of  life. 

Highly  gifted  and  with  a  strong  leaning  towards  beauty,  the 
Ukrainians  tried  to  respond  to  this  disposition  in  their  own  way, 
without,  at  the  same  time,  overstepping  the  boundaries  of  peasant 
life,  which  was  the  life  of  ninety-five  per  cent,  of  the  population. 
They  possessed  a  rich  stock  of  artistic  forms  of  expression,  the  result 
of  the  work  of  centuries,  and  this  was  a  valuable  asset  to  their  fine 
assthetic  sense.  In  this  way,  while  the  upper  classes -of  the  "Little 
Russian  "  community,  forgetting  whatever  they  possessed  of  their 
own  in  the  province  of  applied  art,  lived  in  surroundings  borrowed 
from  the  West,  the  peasant  folk  clung  to  their  own  national  art. 

However,  from  the  second  half  of  the  nineteenth  century,  when 
the  feudal  system  was  abolished,  a  change  came  over  the  social  and 
especially  the  economic  conditions  of  the  country,  and  the  old 
traditions  of  peasant  life  began  to  give  way.  This  process  was 
reflected  in  the  peasant  art,  as  it  was  in  everything  else.  The  demand 
for  objects  of  adornment  began  to  be  satisfied  now,  not  with  the 
creations  of  the  peasants'  own  artistic  fancy,  as  was  the  case  hitherto, 
but  with  factory-made  articles  which  were  quickly  adapted  to  the 
roughly  formulated  requirements  of  the  peasant. 

The  decline  of  taste  and  the  flooding  of  the  villages  with 
factory-made  goods  gradually  caused  at  first  a  change  for  the  worse 
in  the  productions  of  the  people's  art,  and  then  the  total 
disappearance  of  that  art. 

This  process  is  not,  however,  yet  completed,  and  the  life  of  the 
Ukrainian  peasant  is  still  preserving  much  of  what  is  very  individual, 
highly  artistic,  and  strongly  characteristic  of  the  spiritual  personality 
of  the  Ukrainian  race.  There  are  still  many  possibilities  for  the 
study  of  this  art,  and  for  making  observations  on  it  as  on  a  living 
thing  and  one  necessary  in  household  life. 

Apart  from  being  highly  interesting  as  a  branch  of  the  world's 
art,  the  artistic  productions  of  the  Ukrainian  peasant  present  a 
special  attraction  for  the  student,  as  the  only  surviving  remnant  of 
the  whole  national  Ukrainian  art  which  flourished  vigorously  in 
former  times  in  all  classes  of  the  "Little  Russian"  community. 

02  15 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

There  are  still  to  be  found  many  examples  of  this  ancient  period  or 
Ukrainian  art,  which  prove  the  high  level  that  was  reached  by  it. 

The  history  of  the  Ukraine  makes  sad  reading  ;  it  is  full  of 
records  of  an  unequal  struggle  for  preserving  the  national  indi- 
viduality of  its  civilisation  and  religion  against  the  pressure  of 
enemies  on  all  sides.  The  geographical  position  of  the  country  made 
it  a  buffer-state  between  Europe  and  the  nomad  tribes  ;  while  this 
was  the  source  of  weakness  of  the  Ukraine,  its  neighbours,  Poland 
and  Muscovy,  considered  it  a  "  bone  of  contention."  One  after  the 
other,  in  succession,  they  became  her  masters  ;  they  intrigued  to 
prevent  the  country  from  becoming  settled,  and  they  denied  it  the 
advantages  of  peace,  in  order  to  keep  it  weak.  Such  a  state  ol 
affairs  could  not  but  be  reflected  on  the  national  art  of  the  people. 
The  conditions  under  which  art  could  flourish  were  wanting,  and  in 
spite  of  other  favouring  circumstances — the  natural  gifts  of  the 
people,  their  high  standard  of  taste,  and  their  strong  innate  inclination 
towards  beauty — the  results  were  not  what  they  might  have  been 
under  other  circumstances. 

The  moment  the  people  began  to  assume  a  semblance  of  tran- 
quillity, as  was  the  case,  for  instance,  at  the  end  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  the  inexhaustible  fountain  of  national  art  was  sure  to  mani- 
fest itself  immediately  and  with  vigour.  The  artistic  tendencies 
would  penetrate  everywhere,  they  would  embrace  all  the  different 
sides  of  the  national  life,  finding  ample  possibilities  of  application 
and  realisation. 

The  struggle  for  independence,  and  the  ill  success  of  the 
Ukrainian  people  in  that  struggle,  produced  terrible  conditions  of 
life,  conditions  which  restricted  the  free  exercise  of  their  indi- 
viduality, ruined  their  national  self-consciousness,  and  resulted  in  the 
sud.den  decrease  and  final  atrophy  of  the  energy  of  this  naturally 
joyous  and  lively  race.  This  process  affected  art  as  it  did  all  other 
sides  of  life,  and  its  influence  on  it  was  certainly  very  strong  and 
of  a  highly  negative  kind. 

The  denationalisation  of  the  upper  classes  ot  the  Ukrainian 
community  was  one  of  the  results  of  these  vicissitudes,  and  it  had  an 
independent  and  an  enormously  ruinous  effect  on  Ukrainian  art. 
The  sphere  of  application  of  this  art  narrowed,  its  means  grew 
poorer,  and  the  number  of  persons  of  culture  and  wealth  who  gave 
their  talents  and  support  to  it  ever  decreased.  The  introduction  of 
serfdom  widened  the  distance  between  the  two  classes,  and  the 
process  terminated,  as  far  as  art  was  concerned,  in  the  almost  com- 
plete expulsion  of  Ukrainian  art  from  the  house  of  the  landowner. 
The  cities,  too,  lost  their  national  characteristics,  and  thus  it  was 

16 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

only  in  places  distant,  one  might  say,  from  the  vanities  of  modern 
life,  under  the  thatched  roofs  of  peasant  houses,  that  Ukrainian  art 
still  found  hospitality. 

Hitherto  but  little  attention  has  been  given  to  the  study  of  this 
national  art  of  the  past,  and  the  fact  is  the  more  regrettable  when  we 
know  that  many  valuable  specimens,  which  could  be  found  in  great 
numbers  a  short  time  ago,  have  now  disappeared. 


ofe 


V.reni,. 


N 

' 


•^         N        o         'i 

X^;ru'o^  /w 

^/V^_     '--V-^-1.     '. 


O  Surtjri  :\. 


LITTLE   RUSSIA   (THE  UKRAINE) 

It  is  true,  several  works  on  Ukrainian  ornament,  especially  on 
embroidery,  were  published  in  the  'seventies  (the  works  of  M. 
Volkov,  Mmes.  Kosacz  and  Litvinova).  To  the  same  time  belongs 
also  the  commencement  of  the  work  of  collecting  objects  relating  to 
the  life  and  art  of  the  Ukrainian  peasant,  which  was  made  by  the 
KiefF  South  Russian  Branch  of  the  Imperial  Geographical  Society. 
But  this  branch  was  soon  closed,  and  thus  the  end  of  the  nineteenth 
century  has  contributed  practically  nothing  of  importance  to  the 
advancement  of  that  study. 

It  was  only  at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  that  the 
real  work  of  study  of  Ukrainian  art  commenced  with  the  collecting 
of  specimens.  The  establishment  of  museums  in  several  of  the  large 
cities  of  the  Ukraine  (KiefF,  Kharkov,  Katerinoslav)  coincided  with 

If 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

that  period,  and  the  revival  of  other  museums  (those  of  Poltava, 
Tchernihov,  Zhitomir,  Kamenetz,  Kherson)  greatly  helped  the 
work  of  the  pioneers.  At  the  present  time  there  are  already  large 
collections  in  existence.  Still,  they  are  not  yet  sufficiently  compre- 
hensive to  give  any  clear  and  full  idea  of  the  Ukrainian  peasant  art 
in  all  its  branches  ;  this  goal  is  not  yet  even  in  view.  Every  fresh 
excursion  into  the  country  produces  something  so  strikingly  new 
that  it  often  opens  up  new  fields  of  applied  art  ;  sometimes  it  seems 
as  if  the  stock  of  articles  in  possession  of  the  peasants  was  inex- 
haustible. 

Lately  the  peasant  industries  have  been  studied  from  the  point  of 
purely  practical  considerations.  The  decline  of  the  people's  wealth 
and  the  impoverishment  of  the  peasant  class  have  called  forth  certain 
legislative  measures,  amongst  which  the  endeavours  to  develop  the 
so-called  "  kustarny "  industry  should  be  mentioned,  as  it  is  an 
artistic  work  and  the  only  work  that  can  compete  with  the  factory 
articles.  Specimens  of  the  old  work  have  been  taken  as  examples, 
and  artists  have  been  invited  to  take  part  in  this  new  movement, 
and,  by  these  means,  the  art  is  being  permanently  preserved  ;  a  kind 
of  revival  of  the  peasant  art  has  thus  to  a  certain  extent  been  brought 
about.  An  effort  has  been  made  to  better  the  economic  conditions 
of  the  peasantry  by  encouraging  the  making  of  objects  of  art  in  the 
peasants'  homes — objects  copied  from  old  models. 

The  Ukrainian  people  are  nearly  all  agriculturists,  and  the  com- 
paratively favourable  conditions  of  soil  and  climate  in  the  Ukraine  did 
not  encourage  the  development  of  the  "  kustarny "  or  domestic 
manufacturing  industries  for  profit.  The  articles  that  the  people 
made  were  destined  not  for  the  market,  but  mostly  for  their  own 
use  ;  but  with  the  decline  of  their  economic  conditions  the  peasants 
began  to  work  not  only  for  themselves,  but  also  for  a  limited 
circle  of  customers.  Some  "  zemstvos "  began  to  assist  peasants, 
especially  the  "  zemstvos  "  of  Poltava,  of  Tchernigoff,  and  quite  lately 
that  of  KiefF.  This  help  manifested  itself  in  the  establishing 
of  special  schools,  in  sending  instructors,  in  supplying  peasants  with 
the  raw  material,  in  organising  warehouses,  publishing  albums  illus- 
trating the  old  specimens  of  national  art,  and  so  on.  But  so  far,  on 
account  of  the  comparative  costliness  of  the  "  kustarny "  articles, 
they  find  only  a  limited  number  of  purchasers.  It  is  mostly  the 
wealthy  classes  who  can  understand  and  appreciate  their  peculiar 
beauty,  and  the  peasants  themselves  cannot  have  them  at  their  own 
disposal. 

As  is  the  case  with  every  people,  the  Ukrainians  expressed 
their  leaning  towards  beauty  first  of  all  in  the  adornment  of  their 

18 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

own  personal  appearance,  then  in  embellishing  their  houses 
and  their  appurtenances.  At  first  the  artistic  impulse  manifested 
itself  in  the  design  of  the  dress,  and  in  the  arrangement  of  its 
different  colours  and  of  the  stuffs  composing  it  ;  then  in  the  adorn- 
ment of  the  head,  and  lastly  in  ornaments  in  the  narrower  sense  of 
that  word. 

In  spite  of  the  rapid  replacement  of  hand-made  cloth  by  im- 
ported factory-produced  material,  the  Ukrainians'  national  dress  is 
still  habitually  worn  in  many  places,  and  we  are  in  a  position  to 
judge  of  this  beautiful  apparel.  As  everywhere  else,  so  in  the 
Ukraine  the  greatest  attention  has  been  given  to  the  holiday  wear, 
and  especially  to  that  of  women.  In  some  parts  of  the  Ukraine  (for 
instance,  in  the  small  northern  strip  of  the  country)  the  national  dress 
is  marked  by  rather  excessive  vividness  of  colour,  and  even  by  a 
crudeness  in  the  relative  arrangement  ;  but  the  characteristic  dress 
of  the  centre  of  the  country  and  of  the  south  is  marked  by  a  quiet 
harmony,  which  sometimes,  as  in  the  province  of  Poltava,  is  repre- 
sented by  a  combination  of  dark  colours,  relieved  only  by  the  un- 
covered white  sleeves  and  the  hem  of  the  white  shirt.  These  parts 
of  the  shirt  and — especially  in  the  case  of  men — the  front  of  it 
are  usually  ornamented  by  embroidery. 

In  the  north  of  the  Ukraine  the  most  primitive  embroidery 
prevails.  It  is  marked  by  a  geometric  design,  and  it  reminds  one 
strongly  of  the  White  Russian  and  even  Finnish  embroidery  ;  its 
colour  is  almost  exclusively  red.  In  the  central  part  of  the  Ukraine, 
where  the  individuality  of  the  people  has  developed  more  fully  than 
anywhere  else,  the  embroidery  varies.  The  most  typical  of  the 
central  Ukrainian  embroidery  are  the  so-called  "  merezhki  "  and 
"  vyrizuvania,"  which  are  completely  devoid  of  coloured  threads,  or  a 
combination  of  this  "  lace  "  embroidery  and  the  ordinary  embroidery, 
or,  lastly,  the  ordinary  white  embroidery.  If  coloured  threads  are 
added  in  the  latter,  it  is  only  done  so  very  sparingly.  In  the  south 
and  south-west  the  coloured  embroidery  is  more  in  evidence  than  in 
the  central  parts,  but  it  is  also  characterised  by  its  quiet  and  rather 
dark  colours.  The  designs  of  embroidery,  although  preserving  in 
the  central  Ukraine  as  in  the  south  the  geometrical  base,  by  pro- 
cesses of  development  have  been  extended  to  the  inclusion  of  the  floral 
motifs  conventionalised  and  adapted  to  the  material  (linen).  It  is 
worth  noting  that  the  leaning  towards  floral  forms  permeates  the 
whole  of  Ukrainian  ornamentation,  while  the  Muscovite  embroidery 
is  overwhelmingly  geometrical  and  includes  elements  from  the  animal 
world  and  even  the  architectural. 

In  some  parts  of  central,  and  more  frequently  in  the  north  of 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

Ukraine,  one  still  finds  the  "  plahta,"  a  peculiar  kind  of  skirt  made 
of  thick  woollen  or  even  silk  stuff,  which  reminds  one  of  the  Scotch 
kilt  ;  but  the  designs,  though  in  squares,  are  more  elaborate,  and  the 
colouring  somewhat  more  varied.  Some  thirty  years  ago  these 
articles  were  worn  all  over  the  Ukraine.  Young  women  donned 
bright  "  plahti "  of  light  colours,  the  elderly  women  dark  ones. 
Among  the  old  "  plahti "  very  beautiful  specimens  can  sometimes  be 
found.  The  material  of  which  they  are  made  is  hand-woven,  and  the 
yarn  spun  and  dyed  by  the  peasants.  The  garment  is  made  of  two 
lengths  of  material,  stitched  together  edge  to  edge  half-way.  The 
stitching  is  done  in  coloured  wools  or  silks  and  forms  an  ornamental 
border.  The  material  is  then  folded  across,  so  that  the  unstitched 
edges,  lying  over  the  stitched  part,  expose  the  pattern.  The 
"  plahta "  is  then  wrapped  round  the  body  to  form  a  double  skirt 
without  gathering  the  stitched  edges  at  the  back,  while  in  front  the 
skirt  is  open,  so  producing  the  necessary  "  spring,"  and  this  is  covered 
by  a  plain  piece  of  stuff  forming  a  kind  of  apron.  The  apron  itself 
is  often  made  of  a  hand-woven  stuff;  it  is  sometimes  ornamented  by 
a  geometrical  design  (as  in  the  north),  either  embroidered,  or,  as  is 
the  case  mostly  now,  simply  printed.  The  "  plahta  "  and  apron  are 
fastened  to  the  waist  by  a  girdle — a  mere  narrow,  coloured  strip 
("  kraika ")  in  Northern  Ukraine,  and  a  wide  sash  of  plaited 
red  wool  in  Central  Ukraine. 

The  men's  dress  is  simpler.  It  consists  usually  of  a  white  shirt 
with  wide  sleeves,  ornamented  with  embroidery  round  the  collar,  down 
the  breast,  and  round  the  cuffs,  and  of  wide,  white  linen  trousers, 
The  overcoat — men's  and  women's  alike — is  called  the  "  svyta,"  and 
is  made  of  a  home-spun  cloth  of  different  shades — white,  grey,  and 
brown.  In  the  olden  times  the  most  popular  colour  was  white.  The 
"  svyta  "  is  made  tight  at  the  waist ;  it  is  usually  trimmed  with 
coloured  strips  and  cords,  and  it  is  sometimes  embroidered  on  the 
lower  part  and  also  at  the  back.  Such  may  be  seen  in  Volhynia. 

The  men's  footwear  consists  of  long  top-boots,  while  the  women 
use  the  "  tchereviki,"  a  kind  of  shoe,  though  they  wear  long  boots  as 
well.  These  are  made  of  coloured  leather,  green  and  red  ;  the  red 
boots  are  still  very  popular  everywhere  in  the  Ukraine.  The 
coloured  footwear  was  used  in  earlier  days  not  only  by  women 
but  also  by  men,  but  now  this  fashion  has  gone  out  altogether 
for  men.  In  the  most  northern  parts  of  the  Ukraine  the  "lapti"  or 
plaited  bark  shoes  are  worn  sometimes  ;  they  are  universally  used 
in  Great  Russia. 

Above  we  have  described  the  Ukrainian  dress  at  its  simplest ; 
in -reality  it  varies  according  to  locality,  and  to  the  degree  of  the 

20 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

wealth  of  those  who  wear  it.  The  change  of  time  has  had  its  strong 
influence  on  the  peasant  dress,  and  the  fashions  are  followed  in  the 
village  not  less  strictly  than  in  the  city.  Thus,  for  example,  a  new 
women's  dress  has  been  evolved,  called  the  "  corsetka  " — a  kind  of 
long  sleeveless  jacket  made  of  a  manufactured  cloth  ;  it  is  quite 
common  in  the  Ukraine,  but  it  began  to  change  lately  according  to 
the  town  fashions.  A  typical  coat  for  men  is  represented  by  the 
"zhupan,"  a  tight-fitting  long  summer-coat  ;  now  the  town  waistcoats 
and  ordinary  town  jackets  have  become  fashionable. 

The  local  tastes  and  influences  of  fashion  are  especially  notice- 
able in  the  head-gear.  Although  as  regards  men  it  is  fairly 
monotonous,  consisting  ot  a  fur  or  woollen  cap  ("shapka"),  and  in 
the  summer  of  a  straw  hat  ("bril"),  or  of  a  wide-spreading 
"  cachquette,"  the  women's  head-dress  is  marked  by  com- 
plexity and  variety.  A  typical  Ukrainian  girl,  whose  hair  is 
usually  braided  in  two  plaits  coiled  round  her  head,  adorns  it 
with  wreaths  of  fresh  or  artificial  flowers,  and  an  abundance  of 
brightly  coloured  long  ribbons  hang  from  her  head  down  her 
back.  Especially  picturesque  is  the  head-dress  of  a  bride.  A 
married  woman,  according  to  a  uniform  custom  strictly  observed 
in  the  whole  of  the  Ukraine,  must  cover  her  hair  ;  for  this  purpose 
she  wears  a  special  sort  of  cap  with  a  stiff  frame,  made  of  coloured 
linen  adorned  with  embroidery,  brocade,  or,  in  the  old  days,  even  of 
cloth-of-gold.  These  caps  are  of  different  shapes — round,  square,  or 
cylinder  form  ("  otchipok")  ;  round  them  a  long  transparent  veil  is 
wound  ("  namitka  ").  The  "  namitka  "  itself  was  usually  woven  at 
home  of  home-spun  fine  threads,  or  from  home-spun  silk  ;  the  ends 
of  this  veil  hung  loosely  down  the  back.  At  present  the  "  namitka  " 
is  seldom  to  be  met  with,  but  the  "  otchipok  "  is  usually  draped  in  a 
sort  of  machine-made  coloured  kerchief. 

Great  care  is  given  to  the  adornment  of  the  neck  and  breast. 
For  this  purpose  long  rows  of  glass  and  coral  beads  are  worn  by  the 
women  ;  the  gold  or  silver  coins,  crucifixes  and  medallions,  are 
hung  from  them  in  the  centre  ("ducatch").  In  olden  times  the 
production  of  these  metal  ornaments,  as  well  as  of  earrings,  rings, 
clasps,  &c.,  constituted  one  of  the  home  industries  of  the  Ukraine. 
Gradually,  however,  the  factory  has  almost  completely  ruined  it, 
and  now  even  the  very  custom  of  wearing  these  metal  adornments 
is  dying  out,  and  it  is  only  in  the  Carpathians,  amongst  the  so-called 
"  Hutsuls,"  that  the  custom  is  still  fully  preserved.  They  wear  them 
extensively,  and  the  production  of  these  ornaments  is  widespread 
among  them. 

In  the  winter  a  warm  white  sheepskin  coat,  called  "  cozhuh," 

21 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

is  worn,  sometimes  covered  with  cloth.  From  the  point  of  view  of 
applied  art,  the  ornaments  made  of  coloured  leather  which  are  worn 
on  the  "  cozhuh  "  are  worth  mentioning.  These  ornaments  adorn 
the  skirts  of  the  coat  ;  the  designs  are  old,  traditional,  and  evolved 
specially  for  this  purpose  ;  these  leather  ornaments  are  sometimes 
replaced  by  an  embroidery  made  of  coloured  wool.  Sometimes 
such  embroidery  adorns  not  only  the  skirts  of  the  coat  but  also 
the  back. 

It  is  impossible  here  to  give  a  full  description  of  all  the  details 
of  the  Ukrainian  national  dress.  All  that  can  be  attempted  is  to 
give  a  general  idea.  The  essential  characteristics  of  the  dress  are  its 
elegance,  its  freedom  from  exaggeration,  and  the  details  of  its  orna- 
ment. The  more  primitive  features  are  to  be  found  in  its  traditional 
cut,  and  in  the  arrangement  of  the  colours  of  the  costumes  belonging 
to  the  north  and  the  north-west  ;  while  in  Central  Ukraine,  where 
the  life  of  the  people  has  found  its  fullest  development,  we  meet 
with  a  dress  that,  in  spite  of  its  simplicity,  would  satisfy  the  highest 
and  most  refined  requirements  of  taste. 

The  climate,  the  natural  surroundings,  and  also,  of  course,  the 
character  of  the  Ukrainian  people,  have  had  their  effect  upon  the 
evolution  of  the  house,  yard,  and  relative  arrangement  of  various 
buildings,  the  plan  of  the  house,  its  adornment,  and  the  general 
aspect  of  the  village  as  a  whole.  The  Ukrainian  village  is  of  an 
entirely  different  type  from  that  of  the  Muscovite  ;  whereas  in  the 
latter  case  the  houses  are  grouped  together,  lined  in  rows,  and  over- 
look the  street,  the  houses  of  the  Ukrainian  villages  are  hidden  in 
the  orchards,  strewn  about  without  any  definite  plan  or  arrangement, 
and  the  whole  village  is  composed  of  a  number  of  picturesque 
"corners"  ("coot").  An  abundance  of  verdure,  the  inevitable 
attachment  to  every  house  of  even  a  small  orchard,  for  which  the 
Ukraine  is  so  famous,  a  mass  of  flowers,  due  to  the  fact  that  the 
Ukrainian  villages  are  usually  situated  on  the  banks  of  a  lake  or  a 
river,  all  this  gives  to  the  Ukrainian  village  an  especially  attractive 
and  picturesque  appearance.  It  is  true  that  lately,  thanks  to  the 
growth  of  population,  the  former  homeliness  and  attractiveness  of  the 
Ukrainian  village  have  begun  to  disappear,  and  the  yards  are  being 
divided  into  portions  and  used  for  building  purposes  ;  still,  the  general 
character  of  the  Ukrainian  village  is  preserved. 

In  the  north  and  north-west  the  grouping  of  the  houses  resembles 
rather  more  that  of  the  Muscovite  villages,  and  so  do  also  the  inner 
arrangement  of  the  yard  and  the  relative  positions  of  the  various 
buildings.  In  the  north,  in  the  forest  parts  of  the  Ukraine,  the 
house  and  household  buildings  are  more  closely  connected,  and  are 

22 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

often  joined  under  the  same  roof,  sometimes  enclosing  a  quadrangle, 
also  roofed  over,  which  is  entered  by  a  single  gate.  Quite  a  different 
arrangement  prevails  in  the  centre  and  south.  Here  the  yard  occu- 
pies a  much  larger  space,  and  the  house  and  domestic  buildings  stand 
separately.  In  the  case  of  the  more  well-to-do  families,  even  the 
"  comora "  (a  dark  room  where  all  sorts  of  provisions  are  kept) 
stands  apart  ;  other  buildings  of  the  household  are  the  "  povitka,"  a 
shed  for  the  cows,  sheep,  carts,  and  field  implements ;  the  "  sazh," 
or  pigsty  ;  and,  lastly,  the  "  clunya,"  the  place  where  grain  is  stored. 
The  "  clunya  "  is  detached  even  in  Northern  Ukraine.  It  is  very 
often  situated  quite  far  from  the  house,  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
village. 

The  Ukrainian  house  ("  khata  ")  has  undoubtedly  passed  through 
several  stages  of  development  before  it  reached  its  present  state.  It 
has  been  gradually  evolved  out  of  an  earthen  hut.  As  a  relic  of 
ancient  times  in  the  northernmost  region  of  the  Ukraine,  the  so- 
called  "smoking  khati  "  can  be  seen,  devoid  of  chimneys,  with  the 
smoke  issuing  through  a  hole  in  the  wall.  But  in  the  rest  of  the 
Ukraine,  especially  in  the  most  advanced  central  and  southern  parts, 
the  peasant-house  has  long  since  become  a  comfortable  living-place, 
attractive  without  and  clean  and  tidy  within. 

The  Ukrainian  "  kbata  "  is,  as  a  rule,  built  of  wood.  In  the 
north  a  thick  wood  is  used,  in  the  south  it  is  of  a  medium  size.  In 
the  south  "  khati "  are  also  to  be  found  with  walls  made  of 
plaited  reeds,  and  covered  with  a  thick  layer  of  clay.  Sometimes 
the  whole  substance  of  the  wall  is  composed  of  clay,  without  any 
reeds  or  wood.  A  distinguishing  feature  of  a  Ukrainian  "khata," 
from  whatever  material  it  may  be  built,  is  that  it  is  invariably  white- 
washed. In  those  cases  when  the  necessary  white  clay  or  chalk  is 
not  to  be  found  on  the  spot,  they  are  brought  from  other  districts. 
The  roof  is  thatched  and  has  four  slopes,  with  wide  overhanging 
eaves  in  front.  To  the  entrance,  always  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
front  wall,  is  often  added  a  porch  ("  ganok  ").  Sometimes,  especially 
in  the  older  houses,  at  one  end  of  the  "  khata"  is  an  open  veranda 
("piddasheh"). 

The  white  glittering  walls  of  the  "khati,"  their  brown  thatched 
roofs  immersed  in  the  background  of  rich  verdure  of  all  possible 
shades,  all  flooded  with  abundant  rays  of  the  Ukrainian  sun,  make 
the  appearance  of  the  Ukrainian  village  extremely  beautiful.  The 
gently  outlined  landscape,  which  is  so  characteristic  of  the  Ukraine, 
is  here  accentuated  by  the  fine  sense  of  beauty  of  the  people,  who 
are  permeated  by  the  influences  of  their  beautiful  surroundings. 

The  "  khati "  and  all  other  household  buildings  of  the  Ukrainian 

23 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

peasant,  except  the  "  clunya,"  are  lacking  in  height.  The  reason  ot 
it  is  to  be  found  in  some  practical  considerations  :  the  low  building 
is  more  easily  kept  warm  and  not  so  difficult  to  clean  and  repair. 
When  these  considerations  are  immaterial  we  observe  an  opposite 
characteristic.  Thus  in  the  architecture  of  the  churches,  which  in 
the  Ukraine  had  developed  a  highly  national  and  quaint  style,  the  great 
height  of  the  building  had  become  a  prominent  feature.  This 
principle  manifests  itself  in  the  wooden  as  in  the  stone-built 
churches,  but  it  found  a  more  obvious  way  of  expressing  itself  in 
the  churches  built  of  wood  ;  therefore  it  is  these  churches  that  we 
must  take  as  the  most  typical.  The  height  and  the  spaciousness 
were  suggested  by  means  of  a  gradually  narrowing  frame.  This  was 
the  arrangement  within.  Without,  with  a  view  to  giving  an 
artistically  architectural  appearance  to  the  building,  the  whole  body 
of  it  was  cut  by  a  series  of  narrow  cornices,  covered  with  a  roofing, 
into  several  quasi  stories  that  were  terminated  by  a  dome.  The 
building,  having  a  quadrilateral  base,  with  its  corners  often  cut 
off,  represented  a  mono-domed  church.  Three  such  buildings  put 
together  in  a  row,  with  corresponding  alterations  in  their  pro- 
portions, formed  a  tri-domed  church.  This  is  the  most  usual  type  of 
church  in  the  Ukraine.  The  addition  of  a  single  other  such  unit  on 
each  side  made  it  into  a  five-domed  church,  which  is  also  fairly 
common,  especially  in  the  more  flourishing  villages.  Very  seldom 
to  be  met  with  is  the  further  development  of  the  same  type — the 
nine-domed  building. 

This  type  of  church  is  common  (with  slight  alterations)  to 
both  Russian  and  Austrian  parts  of  the  Ukraine.  Here  it  had  its 
origin,  and  it  represents  an  original  and  independent  product  of  the 
creative  art  of  the  Ukrainian  people  ;  the  only  analogy  to  this  style 
of  wooden  architecture  is  to  be  found  in  the  picturesque  wooden 
churches  of  the  Scandinavian  countries.  The  building  of  these 
churches  is  now  a  thing  of  the  past.  The  few  surviving  examples 
are  doomed.  What  is  erected  now,  what  has  been  built  for  the  last 
fifty  or  sixty  years,  has  nothing  in  common  with  this  old  style. 
The  new  churches  in  Ukraine  are  built  in  the  quasi-Muscovite 
style,  striking  for  its  want  of  taste,  and  absolutely  disconnected  with 
local  tradition. 

As  to  the  adornment  of  the  house,  here,  as  in  every  other  sphere, 
the  same  care  manifests  itself,  the  same  absence  of  the  superfluous, 
the  same  restraint.  By  terracing  the  four  slopes  of  the  roof  an 
element  of  variety  is  brought  into  the  otherwise  plain  surface  of 
the  ceiling.  The  quiet  whiteness  of  the  walls  is  accentuated  by  the 
coloured  panelling  along  the  skirting  and  round  the  doors  and 

24 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

windows.  Some  of  the  older  "  khati "  have  a  cornice  corresponding  to 
the  eaves.  The  cornice  is  of  wood  adorned  with  carving.  The  carving 
on  the  window  frames  and  the  crude  colouring  of  the  shutters  that  is 
to  be  met  with  now,  are  of  recent  origin  and  have  been  brought  to 
the  Ukraine  by  foreign,  mostly  Muscovite,  carpenters. 

A  typical  Ukrainian  "  khata  "  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a 
hall  placed  in  the  centre.  One  part  serves  for  dwelling  purposes, 
the  other  is  called  the  "  comora  "  and  is  used  as  a  storing  place  for 
provisions,  clothes,  &c.  This  latter  part  is  usually  left  without 
ornament  ;  very  often  it  is  not  even  whitewashed.  But  in  the  hall, 
over  the  frame  of  the  door  leading  into  the  dwelling  part  of  the 
"  khata,"  one  very  often  finds  some  embellishment.  This  is  as  a  rule 
a  painted  design  of  a  widely  spread  type,  executed  in  water-colours. 
It  usually  represents  some  conventional  floral  form  and  is  laid  on 
with  a  firm,  confident  hand.  Such  designs  adorn  panels,  ovens,  and 
walls  ;  sometimes  even  the  outer  walls  are  covered  with  them.  The 
white  of  the  walls,  kept  in  a  state  of  permanent  cleanliness  by  the 
care  of  the  Ukrainian  women,  furnishes  an  excellent  background  for 
this  painting.  The  colours  mostly  used  are  brown,  red,  and  blue. 
It  is  worth  noting  that  the  wall-painting  in  the  interior  of  the 
"  khata  "  is  placed  on  the  cleanest  part  of  it,  the  so-called  "  pocootyeh," 
that  is,  the  corner  facing  the  entrance  door,  where  the  holy  pictures 
are  placed  and  the  large  table  is  situated.  The  rest  of  the  "  khata  " 
is  honoured  with  far  less  adornment. 

This  wall-painting  has  lately  been  replaced  in  many  districts  by 
ornaments  cut  out  of  coloured  paper,  or  even  by  pieces  of  wall-paper, 
which  latter  practice  is  of  course  no  furtherance  of  the  original 
custom.  As  an  exception,  in  some  localities  of  the  Ukraine  old 
"  khati "  are  to  be  found,  belonging  to  some  well-to-do  Cossack 
families,  where  the  wall-adornment  is  of  a  different  character  :  here 
the  walls  are  not  whitewashed,  but  covered  with  smoothly  polished 
boards,  which  in  the  "  pocootyeh  "  are  painted  with  oil-colour.  The 
design  consists  usually  of  flowers. 

The  art  of  painting,  hitherto  so  widely  spread,  is  now  dying  out. 
It  has  been  a  naive  art  and  a  peculiar  one,  which  has  been  closely 
connected  with  all  the  other  branches  of  peasant  craft.  Speci- 
mens of  oil-painting  are  to  be  met  with  most  often  on  coffers 
("  scryni  "),  where  the  most  valued  belongings  of  a  person  are  pre- 
served. When  a  girl  gets  married  she  is  supplied  with  a  "  scrynia  " 
by  her  parents.  The  same  kind  or  painting  often  adorns  cupboards 
and  shelves  ("  mysnykis  "),  wooden  plates  and  long  jugs,  also  the  ledges 
on  which  the  holy  pictures  stand,  and,  lastly,  the  "  svolok  "  or  central 
beam  supporting  the  ceiling. 

2$ 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

In  some  parts  of  the  Ukraine  specimens  of  a  higher  class  of 
painting  are  still  to  be  found.  Amongst  them  the  religious  pictures 
and  family  subjects  are  worthy  of  notice.  A  picture  of  "  Cossack 
Mama'i,"  that  personification  of  a  free-loving  and  daring  spirit,  is 
especially  popular. 

The  majority  of  the  articles  mentioned,  all  these  "  scryni," 
"  mysnykis,"  &c.,  besides  the  painted  ornament  they  bear,  are  also 
mostly  adorned  with  carved  designs.  The  art  of  wood-carving, 
however,  is  not  equally  developed  in  all  parts  of  the  Ukraine,  but  is 
at  its  highest  along  the  middle  course  of  the  Dnieper.  Carving  is 
usually  to  be  found  on  plates,  jugs,  cake-moulds,  boxes,  spoons, 
sticks,  &c.  It  is  usual  also  to  carve  the  backs  of  sledges,  carts,  and 
yokes.  A  very  remarkable  carving,  of  very  ancient  origin,  is  to  be 
met  with  on  some  of  the  windmills,  beehives,  &c. 

The  leading  characteristics  of  the  designs  in  the  Ukrainian 
wood-carving  are  common  to  those  found  in  the  west  of  Europe. 
As  in  all  other  branches  of  peasant  art,  so  in  this  particular  one,  we 
see  the  Ukrainian  people  treating  the  common  European  subject  in 
its  own  peculiar  way.  The  designs  of  the  carved  ornaments  are  mostly 
geometrical  with  the  popular  rosework.  But  the  leaning  towards 
floral  motifs,  in  spite  of  the  difficulties  that  the  execution  of  them 
with  the  primitive  tools  presents,  sometimes  manifests  itself  even 
here,  although  in  a  naive  form.  Sometimes  the  two  means  of  orna- 
mentation, painting  and  carving,  are  united,  but  very  few  of  the  older 
specimens  of  that  kind  are  preserved,  while  the  new  ones  are  of  little 
artistic  value. 

In  a  country  of  rigorous  winters  like  the  Ukraine  the  stove 
naturally  plays  a  very  important  part  in  the  "  khata."  It  is  now  a  large 
construction,  gradually  evolved  by  many  stages  out  of  the  original 
hole  in  the  earth,  and  like  other  productions  of  the  Ukrainian 
peasant,  it  has  in  its  evolution  followed  the  lines  of  beauty  ;  so  that  in 
its  present  form,  with  its  rich  panelling,  its  niches,  its  shelves,  and 
the  harmonious  grouping  of  its  parts,  it  presents  a  construction 
satisfactory  from  the  architectural  point  of  view. 

The  stove  is  usually  built  of  ordinary  clay  or  of  brick,  but  when 
used  for  warming  purposes  and  not  for  cooking  it  is  generally  made 
of  tiles.  At  the  present  time  these  stoves,  as  separate  constructions, 
are  seldom  met  with  in  the  peasant  houses,  though  some  time  ago 
the  manufacture  of  the  tiles  was  widely  spread.  The  tiles  were 
sometimes  made  of  fired  clay,  unglazed,  and  ornamented  with  low 
relief  forms  (plants,  birds,  human  figures,  and  also  many  different 
combinations  of  geometrical  ornament  similar  to  that  used  in  carving) ; 
some  were  covered  with  glazes  of  various  colours  ;  and  lastly,  there 

26 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

were  those  with  a  smooth  surface,  ornamented  with  designs  in 
enamel,  designs  identical  with  those  found  on  plates,  jugs,  &c. 
Thanks  to  the  richness  and  variety  of  clays  to  be  found  in  the 
Ukraine,  suitable  for  the  purposes  of  ceramic  art  (even  the  fine  china 
clay  abounds  in  some  parts),  the  art  of  the  potter  has  been  carried  on 
since  early  times. 

The  present-day  Ukrainian  pottery  is  interesting  in  many  ways. 
It  is  partly  so  because  many  survivals  of  the  past  are  preserved  in 
it,  and  also  because  it  possesses  a  variety  of  original  shapes  and 
ornaments.  In  response  to  different  requirements  of  the  peasant 
household  various  articles  of  pottery  were  evolved  :  those  for 
cooking,  those  for  the  table,  for  preserving  milk,  keeping  drinks,  &c. 
There  is  an  extremely  ancient  kind  of  bottle  for  fermented  drinks 
made  in  the  forms  of  animals.  With  the  variety  of  shapes 
corresponds  the  variety  of  painted  ornament,  and  different  localities 
produce  different  designs,  although  all  met  with  in  the  Ukraine  are 
undoubtedly  based  on  the  same  main  ideas.  The  methods  of  painting 
are  of  ancient  origin.  It  is  done  with  the  help  of  a  horn  or  funnel 
from  which  issues  a  thick  colouring.  The  ornament  found  on  the 
pottery,  thanks  to  the  freedom  which  is  allowed  here  to  the  artisan, 
is  often  very  complicated.  There  are  plain  designs  consisting  of 
small  curly  lines,  scrolls,  or  parallel  lines,  and  there  are  also  com- 
binations of  curves,  sprays  of  roughly  conventional  flowers.  In 
some  localities  where  pottery  is  an  old  industry,  art  has  gone  even 
farther.  Pictures  of  plants  and  flowers,  birds,  fishes,  and  human 
figures  are  painted  on  the  pottery,  and  some  of  these  show  a  high 
development  of  skill  and  much  taste.  Yet  most  of  the  artists  are 
illiterate. 

A  special  branch  of  the  ceramic  art  is  represented  by  the  toys, 
and  this  also  is  of  ancient  origin.  The  most  popular  toys  are  those 
representing  various  animals,  fantastic  human  dolls,  horsemen,  &c. 
Each  of  these  toys  is  fitted  with  a  whistle,  and  hence  the  toys  are 
called  "  whistles  "  ("  svystuni"). 

Considerably  less  than  the  earthenware,  is  spread  amongst  the 
peasants  of  the  Ukraine  the  glassware.  In  the  "  khata "  of  the 
peasant  it  is  rare  even  now  ;  it  was  much  rarer  before,  except  in  the 
houses  of  the  well-to-do  Cossacks  and  townsfolk.  Glass  that  can  be 
found  now  in  the  villages  is  of  factory  origin  and  has  nothing 
interesting  about  it.  In  times  past  there  were  a  great  number  of 
small  glass  factories  in  the  Ukraine,  but  they  are  mostly  extinct  now 
in  consequence  of  the  development  of  industry.  These  small  glass 
factories,  "  hooti "  as  they  were  called,  used  to  manufacture,  by 
means  of  highly  primitive  methods  without  use  of  models  of  any 

27 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

kind,  various  glass  articles  founded  on  old  originals,  and  thus  pre- 
serving the  old  tradition  as  to  the  forms  which  were  beautiful  in 
their  nai've  simplicity.  A  great  variety  of  bottles  in  the  shape  of 
animals  and  different  objects  were  produced  in  these  "  hooti."  They 
were  intended  for  expensive  drinks  and  were  used  on  great  occasions, 
festivals,  &c. 

Articles  made  of  metal,  notably  those  of  copper,  were  even  rarer 
in  the  Ukraine  than  was  the  glassware.  But  the  few  examples 
that  are  still  to  be  found  testify  to  the  fact  that  in  the  olden  times 
this  class  of  article  was  much  more  numerous  than  it  is  now,  and 
some  of  the  specimens  possess  great  beauty  of  shape  and  ornamenta- 
tion. In  most  cases  the  copper  article  was  made  to  serve  as  a  bottle 
for  various  drinks,  for  the  old  Ukraine  was  famous  for  the  variety  and 
excellence  of  its  drinks.  In  our  time  the  things  made  of  copper  are 
to  be  met  almost  exclusively  as  water  jugs,  or  big  kettles  ("kazani"), 
serving  the  purposes  of  preparing  mead  on  occasions  of  the  festival 
of  the  patron  of  the  local  church. 

In  the  eighteenth  century  and  before,  tin  articles,  mostly  ot 
Western  European  origin,  were  largely  used  in  the  Ukraine.  But 
they  were  seldom  to  be  met  with  in  peasant  houses,  as  seldom,  in  fact, 
as  were  silver  articles,  of  which  only  a  wine-glass  may  still  be  found 
in  the  more  well-to-do  Cossack  houses,  as  a  relic  of  the  past. 

The  articles  and  ornaments  made  of  iron  were  not  represented 
in  the  Ukraine  by  such  a  variety  of  shapes  and  skilled  perfection  as 
they  were  in  the  west  of  Europe  ;  but  still  some  of  them,  as,  for 
instance,  door-hinges  or  the  iron  ornaments  of  the  wooden  coffers,  the 
locks,  and  especially  the  crosses  crowning  the  domes  of  the  churches, 
supplied  a  whole  series  of  local  forms  which  grew  up  independently 
in  the  Ukraine.  At  the  present  time  they  are  dying  out,  and  are 
being  replaced  by  new  ones  which  have  nothing  in  common  with 
the  local  art,  or  indeed  with  any  art  whatsoever. 

One  custom  may  be  still  noted  as  universal ;  this  is  the  orna- 
menting of  the  chief  corner  of  the  room  in  the  "khata"  by  long 
embroidered  or  plaited  towels.  Though  the  ornamentation  of 
these  towels  is  not  complicated,  it  is  met  with  in  a  fairly  great 
variety,  from  the  coloured  stripe  at  the  ends  to  a  design  filling  up 
the  greater  part  of  the  towel.  The  usual  geometrical  designs  prevail 
on  the  whole,  but  in  some  cases  the  conventional  floral  ornament 
is  to  be  found.  Here,  again,  we  see  the  tendency  of  the  Ukrainian 
peasant  art  towards  this  kind  of  ornament.  This  tendency  has  its 
full  play  when  the  towel  is  ornamented  by  embroidery.  In  these 
cases  we  meet  almost  exclusively  the  floral  ornament,  represented  by 
the  two  bouquets  or  blossoming  plants  placed  at  each  end  of  the 

28 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

towel.  Very  often  the  plant  is  depicted  growing  from  a  pot.  In 
spite  of  these  general  characteristics  of  the  embroidered  ornament, 
various  localities  of  the  Ukraine  produce  various  specimens  of  the 
work  that  differ  as  to  the  richness  of  their  composing  elements  and 
the  skilfulness  of  their  execution. 

Besides  these  embroidered  towels  and  shawls  ("khustka") 
bearing  the  same  class  of  embroidery  on  them,  the  old  Ukrainian  life 
gave  us  also  some  other  now  very  rare  samples  of  this  kind  of 
work.  It  is  necessary  to  mention  here  the  embroidery  executed  in 
silk  of  various  colours,  and  gold  or  silver,  that  which  served  for  the 
purposes  of  ornamenting  cushions,  blankets,  and  especially  the  robes 
of  the  priests.  The  examples  of  this  work  belonging  to  the  eighteenth 
century,  of  which  we  possess  already  large  collections  in  the  various 
Ukrainian  museums,  enable  us  to  speak  of  a  separate  style  which 
consists  of  an  adaptation  of  the  borrowed  elements — mostly  floral— 
and  that  reaches,  from  the  artistic  point  of  view,  a  high  level.  It  is 
natural  in  these  circumstances  that  all  "kustarny"  work  in  the 
Ukraine  should  be  but  an  imitation  of  the  embroidery  work  of  the 
eighteenth  century. 

Poor  as  may  be  a  "khata,"  it  is  a  general  rule  that  opposite 
the  entrance-door  you  will  find  a  table,  or  a  big  coffer  ("  scrynia  ") 
serving  as  the  table.  This  table,  or  the  "scrynia,"  is,  as  a  rule, 
covered  with  a  white  table-cloth,  and  the  loaf  of  dark  bread,  with 
the  knife  at  its  side,  is  placed  in  the  centre  of  it.  The  loaf  is  the 
symbol  of  hospitality — one  of  the  characteristic  features  of  the 
Ukrainians.  The  table-cloth  covering  the  table  is  of  the  same 
general  type  as  are  the  towels  ;  it  is  embroidered  all  over,  or,  as  is 
often  the  case,  it  has  an  embroidered  border.  In  the  central  districts 
of  the  Ukraine  it  is  customary  to  cover  the  table,  not  with  the  white 
linen  cloth  of  the  above-described  type,  but  with  a  woollen  rug. 
The  same  kind  of  rug  is  used  for  covering  the  beds  ("pil"),  and 
in  the  south  it  is  used  for  covering  the  benches  that  run  along  the 
walls  of  the  room.  The  making  of  these  rugs  was  a  very  ancient  and 
extensive  industry  of  the  Ukraine,  but  it  is  dying  out  now,  and  is 
supported  chiefly  by  artificial  means.  As  is  clearly  seen  from  the 
very  name  of  the  rug,  which  is  in  Ukrainian  "  kylym "  (carpet), 
the  industry  has  been  introduced  from  the  East.  Thanks  to  the 
fact  that  wool  has  always  been  very  abundant  in  the  Ukraine, 
where  sheep-breeding  flourishes,  the  making  of  rugs  has  naturally 
become  one  of  the  staple  industries  of  the  country,  and  the  carpets 
are  a  necessary  part  of  the  comfort  of  the  peasant  home.  The 
characteristic  feature  of  these  carpets,  when  they  were  introduced 
from  the  East,  was  their  geometric  ornament,  and  they  still  retain 

29 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

it,  especially  in  South  Ukraine.  But  the  creative  instinct  of  the 
peasant  could  not  allow  itself  to  be  confined  to  geometric  forms, 
and  we  see  a  gradual  change  taking  place  in  the  direction  of 
the  adoption  of  the  floral  motifs.  As  a  result,  we  have  a  peculiar 
type  of  carpet,  which,  so  far  as  we  are  able  to  judge  by  the  collected 
specimens,  strikes  one  with  its  extraordinary  variety  as  regards  its 
design,  and  the  richness  and  delicacy  of  its  colouring.  There  is  no 
doubt  that  in  more  recent  times,  notably  in  the  eighteenth 
century,  the  Western  European  influences  had  an  effect  upon  the 
Ukrainian  carpet  work  ;  but  it  is  certain  as  well  that  these  latter 
influences  have  been  like  the  Oriental  ones,  adapted  by  the  Ukrainians 
to  suit  their  own  artistic  tastes  and  requirements.  The  most  popular 
type  of  carpet,  as  regards  the  make,  is  the  smooth  one,  Gobelin- 
like  ;  the  rough  carpets  are  met  with  very  seldom.  As  regards  the 
dyes  used,  they  are  invariably  of  the  vegetable  order,  prepared  from 
the  bark  of  the  trees  and  different  vegetables. 

We  would  say  a  few  words  concerning  various  small  articles  that 
are  used  for  the  purpose  of  ornamenting  the  dwelling-places.  To 
these  belong  the  so-called  "  pavuki,"  very  ingenious  light  figures 
made  of  straw  and  dyed  wool,  and  fastened  to  the  ceiling  of  the  room. 
Sometimes  these  figures  are  ornamented  with  artificial  flowers  of  home 
make  ;  some  kinds  of  flowers  are  employed  also  for  ornamenting  holy 
pictures.  Bunches  of  sweet-smelling  grasses  and  flowers  are  used  for 
the  same  purpose.  Sometimes  a  carved  wooden  pigeon,  the  symbol 
of  the  Holy  Spirit,  is  placed  in  front  of  the  holy  pictures.  Here  also 
are  suspended  the  ornamental  Easter  eggs  ("  pysanka  ").  The  making 
of  these  eggs  at  Easter-time  is  a  universal  custom  in  the  Ukraine, 
although  the  process  of  ornamenting  them  is  rather  a  complicated 
one.  The  designs,  geometrical  as  well  as  floral,  have  long  attracted 
attention,  and  once  more  testify  to  the  extraordinary  giftedness  and 
artistic  taste  of  the  Ukrainian  people.  There  is  already  a  whole 
literature  in  existence  concerning  Ukrainian  "  pysanki." 

We  are  only  able  to  touch  superficially  upon  the  vast  field  or 
artistic  relics  that  we  have  inherited  from  the  Ukrainian  people  and 
their  artistic  activity.  The  general  conclusion,  which  we  feel  ourselves 
justified  in  making  now  we  have  surveyed  that  field,  is  this  :  the 
peasant  art  of  the  Ukraine  is  closely  bound  up  with  the  peasant  art 
of  the  centre  and  north  of  Western  Europe.  We  meet  invariably 
with  a  love  of,  and  gravitation  to,  the  floral  forms  of  ornament.  The 
variety  and  perfection  reached  by  the  Ukrainian  people  in  the  appli- 
cation of  these  forms  give  us  the  right  to  consider  that  bond  more 
close  than,  for  instance,  is  the  case  with  the  Muscovite  people,  who 
show  in  their  peasant  art  a  decisive  preference  for  the  geometric  forms. 

3° 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 

The  love  of  ornament  and  beauty  that  manifests  itselr  intensely 
in  every  sphere  of  life,  that  permeates  that  life,  is  one  of  the  charac- 
teristic features  of  the  Ukrainian  people.  The  past  life  of  this 
people,  that  made  for  preservation  and  continuity  of  the  moral 
individuality  of  the  masses,  resulted  in  the  creation  of  a  national  art 
that  reached  in  its  manifestations  the  high  levels  of  perfection.  The 
present  conditions  of  life  in  the  Ukraine  have  interrupted  this 
continuity,  and  have  dulled  the  inborn  artistic  instinct  of  the 
Ukrainian.  This  is  an  indisputable  fact.  As  the  result  we  see  here, 
as  in  other  European  countries,  the  general  decline  of  the  true 
peasant  art,  and  the  substituting  for  it  of  factory-made  ugliness. 

(Translated  by  V.  STEPANKOWSKY) 


L 


CUT   PAPER    DESIGN 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 


322      PEASANT  FAMILY  FROM  KIEFF,    SOUTH    UKRAINE 


323      PREPARING  THE   HEMP   IN    KIEFF,    SOUTH   UKRAINE 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE   UKRAINE) 


324       HARVESTING    IN    VOLHYNIA,    NORTH    UKRAINE 


325       GROUP    OF    PEASANTS    FROM    KIEFF,    SOUTH    UKRAINE 


LITTLE  RUSSIA   (THE  UKRAINE) 


326       PEASANT    GIRL   CLEANING  FISH 


327      AN   ALFRESCO    MEAL   IN  KIEFF,   SOUTH    UKRAINE 


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345  TO  352     EMBROIDERED  TOWELS 


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360  AND  361     WOOLLEN  TAPESTRIES 


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370  TO  372     HAND-WOVEN    MATERIAL   USED  EOR  SKIRTS 


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3/9  AND   380      INTERIOR    OF    THE    VOLKSKUNST    MUSEUM   AT   KIEFF 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE   UKRAINE) 


381      INTERIOR  OF  THE   VOLKSKUNST  MUSEUM  AT  KIEFF 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 


382       INTERIOR    OF    THE    VOLKSKUNST    MUSEUM    AT    KIEFF 


383       INTERIOR   OF   THE   VOLKSKUNST   MUSEUM   AT    KIEFF 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE   UKRAINE) 


384       INTERIOR    OF    THE    VOLKSKUNST    MUSEUM    ATIKIEFF 


385       INTERIOR   OF  THE  VOLKSKUNST   MUSEUM    AT   POLTAVA 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 


386  TO  389     IRON  CHURCH-CROSSES  (VIIIxH  CENTURY) 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE   UKRAINE) 


390  TO  397     SILVER  JEWELLERY 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 


398  TO  403     GLASS  JUGS,  BOTTLES,  AND  TUMBLERS 


LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE  UKRAINE) 


404  TO  407     GLASS  BOTTLES  AND  JUGS 


LITTLE  RUSSIA   (THE    UKRAINE) 


408     GROUP  OF  GLASSWARE 


LITTLE    RUSSIA   (HIE    UKRAINE; 


-x  >., 


409  GROUP  OF  POTTERY  FROM  POLTAVA 

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LITTLE  RUSSIA  (THE   UKRAINE) 


410     EARTHENWARE  STOVE-TILES  (XVIIlTH   CENTURY) 


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411  TO  416     EARTHENWARE  PLATES 


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423  TO  428     EARTHENWARE  PLATES 


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435    AND   436      WOODEN    SCOOPS 


437     WOODEN  SCOOP 


438       WOODEN    SPOON 


439       CARVED    WOODEN    BOWL 


441       WOODEN    DISH 


442      CARVED   WOODEN   COFFER 


443      CARVED    WOODEN  JUG 


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462       PORTION    OF    CARVED    WOODEN    CARRIAGE 


463       WOODEN    TABLE    (XVIIITH    CENTURY) 


464      CARVED    WOODEN    SLEDGE 


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472     PEASANT'S  HOUSE  IN  KIEFF,  SOUTH  UKRAINE 


473     PEASANT'S  HOUSE  IN  SIEDLCE,  NORTH-WEST  UKRAINE 


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475    AND   476      INTERIORS    OF  PEASANTS'   HOUSES    IN   KIEFF,  SOUTH   UKRAINE 


477       CUT    PAPER    DESIGN 


A 


RUSSIAN  POLAND 


THE    PEASANT    ART     OF     RUSSIAN 
POLAND.      BY  MARYAN  WAWRZENIECKI. 

THE  archaeological  remains  obtained  by  excavation  in  the 
lands  that  subsequently  formed  Poland. testify  to  the  various 
influences  which  were  formerly  predominant  in  these 
regions.  So  far  as  the  present  state  of  scientific  investiga- 
tion permits,  it  is  asserted  that  these  influences  came  from 
the  north,  the  south,  the  east,  and  the  west.  It  is  to  this  day  a 
disputed  question  whether  Slavs  constituted  the  primitive  inha- 
bitants of  these  lands.  The  only  definite  historical  fact  is  that  the 
so-called  epoch  of  the  "  Burgwalltypus  "  ("  vitrified  forts  ")  is  closely 
associated  with  the  Slavs.  The  Slavs  of  the  pre-historic  ages  (as 
T.  Peisker  has  proved  in  his  work,  Die  iilteren  Beziehungen  der  Slaiven 
zu  Turkotartaren  und  Germanen  und  ihre  sozialgeschichtliche  Bedeutung, 
inhabited  these  lands  in  dependence  on  their  neighbours.  In  the 
east  they  were  oppressed  by  the  Turko-Tartar  tribes,  in  the  west 
and  north  by  the  Germans.  The  rise  of  the  Slavonic  states  was 
combined  with  an  internal  revolution,  a  popular  movement  aiming 
at  emancipation  from  foreign  oppression.  The  masses  of  Slavs, 
stirred  to  revolt,  placed  on  the  throne  individuals  from  among 
themselves.  These  individuals,  thanks  to  hired  mercenary  retinues 
("  Druzina  "  or  "  Comitatus"),  gradually  gained  power  and  imposed 
their  will  on  their  opponents. 

Slowly  kings  appeared,  and  from  the  "  retinue "  of  warriors 
a  nobility  ("  szlachta ")  was  evolved.  The  land  began  to  be 
apportioned  by  the  king  in  possession  to  the  most  notable  members 
of  his  court.  In  consequence  then  of  the  settlement  on  the  land 
of  these  Slavonic  inhabitants  we  get  an  outline  of  the  first  struggle 
between  the  old  and  the  new  landowners.  The  history  of  the  first 
centuries  of  historical  Poland,  already  a  Christian  country,  contains 
scanty  but  sufficient  information  as  to  peasant  revolutions.  They 
have  been  represented  by  monkish  chroniclers  as  reprehensible 
attempts  at  a  Pagan  reaction  :  but  they  are  associated  too  with  a 
protest  against  the  social  changes  that  tended  towards  the  mediaeval 
caste-system.  Gradually  the  position  of  the  nobility  and  the  knights 
became  so  strong  and  grew  to  such  power  that  the  Polish  kings  fell 
into  dependence  on  this  Order,  and  in  1422  they  published  at 
Czerwinsk  a  "  Privilege  "  radically  undermining  the  freedom  of  the 
peasant  class.  The  dependence  of  the  peasant  on  his  "  lord " 
became,  as  throughout  all  Europe,  an  accomplished  fact,  in  a  greater 
or  less  degree  according  to  the  will  or  personal  character  of  the 
landlord  ;  and,  despite  the  humanitarian  edict  of  Kosciuszko  (issued 
on  May  7,  1794,  at  Polaniec),  despite  the  examples  of  self-denial  and 
</2  35 


RUSSIAN  POLAND 

nobility  set  by  those  gentlemen  who  of  their  own  free  will  released 
the  peasants  on  their  estates  from  all  burdens  and  "  corvees,"  this 
dependence  continued  more  or  less  until  the  year  1864. 

The  "  Congress  Kingdom "  of  Poland,  which  produced  the 
peasant  decorative  art  represented  in  our  illustrations,  comprises 
the  piece  of  land  that  was  artificially  carved  out  by  the  Congress  ot 
Vienna  in  1815.  It  is  a  country  without  natural  boundaries,  the 
eastern  parts  having  the  character  of  the  Ruthenian  country,  the 
west  of  Prussian  Masovia,  the  south  of  the  Vistula  plain  and 
the  Cracow  district,  and  the  north  of  the  neighbouring  Lithuanian 
regions.  This  accessibility  and  accidental,  purely  political  isola- 
tion of  the  regions  from  whence  our  materials  are  derived,  excludes 
any  fundamental  originality  in  comparison  with  the  neighbouring 
Polish  lands  in  Austria  and  Prussia.  Together  with  the  other  lands 
of  ancient  historical  Poland,  the  regions  of  the  Congress  Kingdom 
have  passed  through  various  changes  and  evolutions.  As  far  back  as 
the  remote  Middle  Ages  German  colonisation  in  the  villages,  and 
more  especially  in  the  towns,  brought  hither  foreign — i.e.  German 

—influences.  Incessant  wars,  which  covered  almost  the  whole 
history  of  mediaeval  Poland,  wars  that  were  principally  successful, 
introduced  among  the  local  peasant  population  an  immigratory 
alien  element  composed  of  prisoners  of  war.  This  element  included 
Germans,  Ruthenians,  sometimes  Turks  and  Tartars.  The  plundering 
raids  of  Lithuanians  and  Jadzwings,  Tartars  and  Hungarians  also 
produced  a  great  admixture  of  nationalities.  The  maintenance  of 
bands  and  militia,  often  recruited  from  foreign  sources  (Hungarians, 
Wallachs  or  Scotchmen),  by  the  magnates  of  the  castles,  even  by  the 
gentry,  further  increased  the  foreign  element  and  introduced  alien 
dress  and  manners.  In  the  age  of  Sigismund  I  a  strong  Italian 
influence  spread  over  the  country.  Even  to-day  the  ornamental 
embroidery  on  the  peasant's  coat  is  called  "  fior." 

In  more  recent  periods,  when  the  Napoleonic  wars  took  the 
Polish  peasants  to  Italy,  Spain  and  Moscow,  the  returning  soldiers 
brought  back  with  them  to  their  homes  impressions  of  the  foreign 
productions  they  had  seen.  But  one  is  sensible  of  little  of  this  alien 
influence  in  the  examples  of  the  peasant  art  we  have  collected  here. 
And  for  this  there  are  several  reasons.  In  the  first  place,  I  may 
draw  attention  to  the  principal  characteristics,  building  materials 

—wood  and  straw,  the  irregular  concentration  of  homesteads  with 
their  straw  roofs  in  close  contact,  and  hence  frequent  conflagrations, 
resulting  in  the  complete  destruction  of  whole  villages,  with  all  the 
houses  and  tools.  The  people,  their  life  and  customs,  have  only 
lately  attracted  the  attention  of  occasional  investigators.  We  have 

36 


RUSSIAN  POLAND 

begun  to  make  amateur  collections  of  their  traditions,  folksongs  and 
dialects.  Our  ideas  on  the  subject  were  such  that  if  any  one 
reflected  on  popular  art,  as  did  Joseph  Ignatius  Kraszewski  ("The 
Art  of  the  Slavs,"  Vilna,  1860),  it  was  such  a  strange  phenomenon 
that  it  did  not  find  an  echo  till  the  appearance  in  1903  of  Casimir 
Moklowski's  "  Peasant  Art."  Gradually  more  scientific  collectors 
came  forward,  and  of  these  the  most  prominent  was  Oscar  Kolberg, 
and  later  Sigismund  Gloger  and  the  learned  Dr.  Jan  Karlowicz,  who 
finally  instituted  the  scientific  investigation  of  the  Polish  peasants. 
And  not  till  1910  did  the  erudite  Professor  Stanislas  Ciszewski 
occupy  the  chair  of  Ethnography  at  the  University  of  Lemberg 
(Lwow).  All  these  were  the  efforts  of  private,  public-spirited 
individuals,  for  we  have  no  governmental  assistance  in  this  direction. 
The  Museum  of  Agriculture  and  Industry,  to  which  we  owe  the 
greater  part  of  the  collected  material,  is  an  institution  maintained 
purely  by  the  joint  efforts  of  private  individuals.  The  "  Society  for 
the  Investigation  of  the  Country  "  is  also  a  private  institution.  And 
this  results  in  our  being  able  to  show  only  unequal  and  incomplete 
material.  Such  a  work  is  beyond  the  ability  and  means  of  private 
persons.  We  must  also  continually  take  into  consideration  the 
remarkable  fact  that  the  peasant  has  for  nearly  forty  years  regarded 
the  educated  man  with  disfavour  ;  every  kind  of  scientific  inves- 
tigation he  considers  as  dangerous  to  himself.  He  nourishes  a 
superstitious  prejudice  towards  actions  that  are  incomprehensible  to 
his  understanding.  There  are  districts  in  Poland  (e.g.  Ojcow)  where 
the  very  word  "  book  "  creates  a  panic  among  the  peasantry.  Add 
to  this  the  great  distances  to  railways  and  highroads,  and  the  lack  of 
convenient  centres  for  the  investigator,  and  we  get  some  idea  of 
the  difficulties  that  have  beset  the  scientist  throughout  the  whole 
Congress  Kingdom  of  Poland. 

The  cottage  and  the  dress,  these  contain  all  the  achievements 
of  peasant  ornamentation.  The  cottages  are  principally  built  of 
wood  and  thatched  with  straw — in  districts  rich  in  timber  built  on 
the  "  corner-post "  or  "  zamek  "  (beams  laid  one  on  the  other  and 
projecting  at  the  corners)  systems,  in  poorer  districts  on  the  cheaper 
"  rygiel "  ("  bolt ")  method.  In  the  contours  of  the  peasant's  cottage 
are  reflected  the  influences  of  styles  that  once  predominated  all  over 
Poland.  The  decorativeness  of  the  cottage  of  the  Polish  peasant 
lies  in  the  beauty  of  the  general  outline,  in  the  straw  thatching,  in 
the  painting  of  the  outside  walls,  in  the  beautiful  joining  of  the 
corners,  in  the  extension  in  profile  beyond  the  corners  of  the  beams 
of  the  wall  (the  "  rysie  "  of  the  cottages  in  Nieborow),  and  in  the 
lines  of  the  wooden  posts  supporting  the  veranda  or  porch.  If  the 

37 


RUSSIAN  POLAND 

cottage  is  old,  it  time  has  laid  her  hand  on  it,  then  the  picturesque- 
ness  is  displayed  in  the  harmony  of  the  colouring,  constituting 
a  beautiful,  multi-coloured  splash  in  the  landscape.  The  beauty  of 
its  interior  lies  in  the  "  pajonki "  (i.e.  "  spiders,"  designs  made 
of  straw)  and  "  wycinanki "  (cut-out  designs  of  coloured  paper), 
probably  once  associated  with  a  superstitious  belief  in  "  bewitch- 
ment "  and  the  "  evil  eye,"  that  has  now  disappeared  in  some 
districts,  but  "in  others  still  continues  as  a  decorative  motive.  The 
many-coloured  chests,  the  woollen  covers,  the  beautiful  bed-covers,  the 
benches  and  tables,  together  with  the  cupboards,  the  dishes  and  salt- 
cellars, and  the  basins  for  holy  water  by  the  door,  these  are  all  objects 
adorned  with  a  carved  or  painted  design.  But  their  claim  to  artistic 
importance  will  always  lie  not  in  the  form  but  in  the  decoration  and 
colour.  The  excellence  of  external  form,  the  beauty  of  cardinal 
lines  do  not  constitute  the  aesthetic  value  of  peasant  productions. 
The  harmony  and  even  the  discordancy  of  colouring,  these  are  the 
true  tokens  of  peasant  art. 

Completely  identical  are  the  characteristics  that  predominate 
in  the  peasant  costumes,  which  also  bear  the  disappearing  features  of 
styles  that  once  held  sway  in  Poland.  In  southern  provinces,  such 
as  Kielce,  this  dress,  in  its  conformity  to  certain  patterns  (flowers  on 
the  materials  for  corsets,  shirts,  shawls  and  aprons),  has  preserved  all 
the  features  of  "  barocco."  Many  hold  the  view  that  dress  and  its 
ornaments  were  not  always  created  by  the  peasantry  itself  (for  instance, 
the  black  crosses  on  the  coats  of  the  Miechow  peasants  recall  the 
dependence  of  these  peasants  on  the  monks  of  Miechow,  priests  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  i.e.  Crusaders).  We  may  infer  that  in  other 
districts,  too,  the  will  of  the  lord  of  the  manor  left  its  mark  here 
also.  This  dress,  poor  enough  in  its  general  outlines,  has  often 
beautiful  details,  such  as  applique-work,  embroidery,  and  always 
very  pretty  colouring.  The  dress  is  completed  by  a  cap  or  hat, 
a  belt  and  boots.  The  caps  have  great  variety  and  some  external 
beauty.  The  belts  are  often  very  richly  adorned,  and  are  always 
interesting  from  their  decorative  motifs  and  colour  schemes. 

The  women  wear  very  gay  costumes.  The  general  lines  of 
female  dress  are  less  happy,  for  important  changes  were  introduced 
here  by  the  influence  of  the  clergy  scenting  in  everything  sin  and 
temptation.  The  colouring  and  beauty  of  the  embroideries  and  the 
designs  constitute  the  leading  characteristics  and  qualities  of  female 
dress,  which  strikes  one  by  its  relatively  slight  adaptation  to  the 
climatic  conditions  of  the  Kingdom  of  Poland.  To-day  radical 
changes  are  beginning  to  take  place  in  this  direction. 

With    dress    is    closely   associated    weaving   and    embroidery. 

38 


RUSSIAN  POLAND 

Weaving  has  survived  chiefly  in  the  northern  and  western  parts  or 
the  country.  The  southerners  have  for  sixty  years  ceased  to  produce 
woven  articles.  The  Lowicz,  the  Opoczynski  districts,  together 
with  Podlasie  and  the  Kurpian  country  (i.e.  the  region  of  great 
forests)  are  the  chief  strongholds  of  weaving.  Here  very  ancient 
motifs  often  appear,  but  we  must  confess  that  our  people  have 
a  childlike  susceptibility  and  gladly  adopt  what  they  have  seen 
elsewhere  and  what  has  taken  their  fancy  ;  hence  they  sometimes 
abandon  their  own  traditional  decorative  designs  and  introduce 
others  which  please  by  their  modernity.  With  weaving  are 
connected  such  implements  as  the  spindle,  the  distaff,  the  bobbin, 
and,  in  some  places,  the  spinning-wheel,  often  in  their  form  and 
ornamentation  revealing  very  interesting  traditions.  Here  we  must 
mention  the  weaver's  frame,  which  still  survives  as  a  relic  of  remote 
antiquity,  and  often  contains  its  own  peculiar  decorative  work 
executed  in  wood.  The  very  primitive  batlet,  used  in  con- 
nection with  the  washing  of  woven  tissues,  is  also  a  subject  for 
ornamentation. 

Objects  of  every-day  use,  such  as  pokers  for  stirring  the  fire, 
also  the  tinder-boxes  forged  by  peasant  smiths,  all  bear  orna- 
mental decoration,  and  their  types  justify  us  in  assigning  them  to 
the  very  early  archaeological  periods  in  the  history  of  these  lands. 

The  surroundings  of  the  cottage,  i.e.  fences  and  railings,  also 
show  a  right  conception  of  the  beautiful.  The  posts  of  the  fences 
are  sometimes  carved  into  distinct  shapes,  while  the  larger  stakes  of 
the  railings  are  similarly  treated.  The  enclosed  fences  in  some 
districts  have  designs  not  altogether  lacking  in  traditional  art  and 
charm. 

By  the  highways,  at  the  crossroads,  stand  so-called  "  figures," 
or  roadside  crosses.  These  figures  in  different  parts  of  the 
Congress  Kingdom  are  of  various  dimensions  and  sometimes 
possess  an  individuality  of  their  own.  In  the  southern  districts  they 
are  frequently  quadrilateral  posts,  with  niches  for  figures  or  small 
pictures.  On  the  top  of  such  a  post  is  placed  the  form  of  the 
suffering  Jesus,  usually  the  work  of  some  small  town  or  village 
carver.  It  is  a  typical  example  of  peasant  sculpture,  where  often 
the  chisel  takes  the  place  of  the  knife,  and  the  technicalities  of  wood- 
carving  are  transferred  to  stone.  Wooden  crosses  are  also  found 
supporting  the  outstretched  figure  of  Christ.  These  are  smaller 
towards  the  south,  taller  in  the  north,  and  enormous  in  Lithuania. 
Besides  crosses  and  brick-supported  posts  the  peasants  are  always 
willing  to  pay  for  so-called  "little  chapels."  Such  chapels  are 
a  survival  of  the  "  coffer "  altars,  common  in  the  Gothic  and 

39 


RUSSIAN  POLAND 

Renaissance  times.  The  sides,  or  wings,  were  taken  away,  and 
only  the  centre  remained.  A  small  gallery,  a  roof  and  a  cross  were 
added,  and  we  have  ready  a  fetish  to  which  the  peasants  attach 
great  importance  and  attribute  wonderful  powers.  Here  and  there 
beside  the  roads  or  before  the  village  churches  we  come  upon  figures 
of  saints,  fashioned  by  the  chisel  of  some  self-educated  village  artist. 
These  examples  of  sculpture,  which  Professor  W.  Luszczkiewicz  has 
classed  as  peasant  art,  in  the  imperfection  of  the  proportions  and 
the  hang  of  the  drapery,  recall  the  barbaric  productions  of  Roman 
art.  I  have  never  been  able  to  feel  any  trace  of  Gothic  traditions 
in  these  figures.  The  great  crosses  of  forged  iron  placed  on  the 
wooden  posts  in  the  chapels,  or  on  the  posts  of  stone  or  brick,  are 
chiefly  the  handiwork  of  a  peasant  smith  dwelling  in  the  village. 
In  the  work  of  these  smiths  we  can  generally  find  much  art  and 
skill,  and  it  is  full  of  character. 

A  conception  of  beauty  is  revealed  in  the  iron-work  of  the 
carts,  especially  in  the  south  of  the  country.  The  ends  of  the  shafts, 
the  so-called  "  little  dogs,"  and  the  foreparts  of  the  cart  called 
"  frontings,"  are  covered  by  the  smiths  with  iron-work  which  they 
adorn  with  designs  of  the  crescent,  cross,  wheel,  and  sometimes 
eye  (cf.  "Ziemia,"  journal  of  the  Society  for  the  Investigation 
of  the  Country,  1910—1911). 

The  locks  of  the  cottage  doors  and  of  the  coffers,  together  with 
the  padlocks  and  keys,  are  also  beautiful  in  the  form  of  a  heart, 
clover,  or  some  other  decoration,  always  interesting.  Of  this 
branch  of  art,  however,  we  have  at  present  but  small  material 
collected. 

The  fishing-tackle,  although  far  from  ornamental,  has,  however, 
in  the  general  outlines  of  its  form  much  charm  associated  with  its 
utility.  The  harness,  too,  though  greatly  modernised,  yet  retains 
sometimes  marks  of  beauty. 

We  consider  that  popular  ornamentation  has  been  preserved  in 
its  most  typical  and  unaltered  form  in  the  customary  ceremonial 
survivals — i.e.  in  painted  and  decorated  "  Easter-eggs  "  with  their 
ornamental  colouring  (red,  blue  and  white)  and  their  designs 
(svastika,  small  tree,  spiral,  wheel,  triangle,  cross)  ;  in  the  ceremonial 
cakes  ("  placki  ")  or  wedding  cakes  ("kolacze"),  "  korowaje," 
"  osutki,"  "  orzeszki "  and  "  szczodraki,"  and  various  other  kinds 
of  cakes  ;  in  such  symbolical  objects  of  superstitious  ritual  as  the 
wand  of  the  wedding  "starosta"  or  "elder"  (symbol  of  Phallus),  the 
wreaths  and  crowns  of  the  wedding  festivities  and  of  the  "  harvest 
home";  in  the  "gaiki"  (celebrations  connected  with  the  change 
of  the  seasons)  or  the  solstice  ;  also  in  the  cut  paper  designs  and 

40 


RUSSIAN  POLAND 

"  spiders "   which  we  have  already  mentioned  in   connection  with 
the  cottage  interior. 

In  the  above-mentioned  objects,  in  our  opinion,  certain  ancient 
superstitious  traditions  have  been  preserved.  The  colouring  and 
artistic  designs  of  the  ceremonial  "Easter  eggs" — which,  by  the 
way,  are  under  the  ban  of  the  Church — intended  to  be  divided  and 
eaten  in  the  days  connected  with  the  worship  of  the  "  new  sun," 
and  the  contents  of  which  afford  a  symbol  of  fertility  and  fresh  life 
(the  renewal  of  nature),  seem  to  have  as  their  purpose  the  protection 
of  all  from  the  impure  negative  powers  (enchantment)  of  these  very 
elements.  The  colours  of  the  eggs  and  their  decorative  designs 
were  considered  in  distant  ages  as  effectual  means  of  neutralising 
these  powers. 

Easter  eggs  thus  decorated  (i.e.  protected  or  secured  against  evil) 
often  form  gifts  for  friends  or  lovers  (the  village  maidens  give  them 
to  the  farmhands)  accompanied  by  wishes  for  prosperity  (vitality). 
The  same  motifs,  inherited  from  the  superstitious  faith  of  remote 
antiquity,  constitute  the  decoration  of  the  "crowns"  at  the  wedding 
and  the  harvest  home,  also  of  the  ceremonial  wedding  cakes. 
Besides  the  usual  decorative  designs  emphasising  the  actual 
ceremony  (the  spiral,  cross,  wand),  we  find  concealed  in  these 
ornaments  an  ancient  motif  which  is  supposed  to  hallow  those  cakes 
apportioned  among  all  who  partake  in  the  ceremony.  In  the 
category  of  ancient  symbols  we  must  include  the  wand  of  the 
elders  ("  starosta  ")  of  the  wedding  :  these  wands  play  an  important 
role  and  are  indispensable  to  a  marriage  contract.  The  execution  of 
the  work  on  these  "  wands  "  and  "  crowns,"  apart  from  tradition,  is 
a  good  criterion  of  the  level  of  aesthetic  feeling  among  the  peasantry 
of  any  given  district. 

In  some  of  the  popular  superstitious  ceremonies  connected 
with  the  solstice,  such  as  the  "  gwiazda "  (star),  "  gaik  "  (grove), 
the  "  turon,"  the  decorative  instinct  of  the  people  also  reveals  itself. 
The  ribbons  used  in  the  decoration  of  some  of  the  objects,  although 
at  present  largely  displaced  by  factory-made  articles,  none  the  less 
bear  designs  that  satisfy  the  artistic  tastes  of  the  peasants. 

In  summarising  the  nature  of  all  the  materials  we  have  been 
able  to  collect,  we  must  emphasise  the  fact  that  throughout  the 
whole  region  of  the  Congress  Kingdom  one  continually  feels  the 
connection  of  these  lands,  from  the  earliest  times,  with  the  great 
home  of  culture  of  the  peoples  of  Mid-Europe.  It  is  the  influence 
of  Western  currents  of  thought,  sometimes  caricatured  and  adapted, 
but  distinctly  felt  at  every  step,  that  constitutes  our  separate  position 
in  these  lands.  Here  are  but  scanty  relics  of  Lithuanian  (Scandi- 

41 


RUSSIAN  POLAND 

navian)  from  the  north  and  Little  Russian  influence  from  the  east. 
And  the  whole  mass  of  our  people  is  indissolubly  bound  up  with  the 
mother  of  their  civilisation — Western  Europe.  There  is  a  complete 
absence  of  Byzantine  influence  in  the  lands  of  the  Congress 
Kingdom. 

Throughout  our  country,  now  but  a  remnant  of  the  once 
powerful  Polish  state,  we  are,  as  we  have  always  been,  the  offspring 
of  Western  civilisation.  Such  was  the  fate  allotted  to  us.  This 
influence  and  connection,  which  we  shall  uphold  with  pride,  is 
confirmed  alike  by  the  art  of  our  enlightened  classes  and  by  the  art 
of  our  common  people,  and  we  intend  to  maintain  it  in  the  future. 

(Translated  by  A.  B.  Bos  WELL) 


42 


CUT   PAPER   DESIGN 


RUSSIAN   POLAND 


478     PEASANT  COSTUME  FROM   KIELCE 


O 

PH 


en 

CO 


RUSSIAN   POLAND 


481        GROUP    OF    PEASANT    POTTERY 


482      GROUP    OF    PEASANT   POTTERY  FROM    WARSAW 


RUSSIAN   POLAND 


483       PAINTED    CHEST    FROM    LOWICZ 


484   TO    486       CARVED    CHAIRS    FROM    KUJAVIA 


CO 
CO 

D 


RUSSIAN   POLAND 


489       MILL    AT    PJOTRKOW 


490      ENTRANCE   TO    A   HOUSE    AT    WOJKOWICE 


491       ENTRANCE   TO    A    HOUSE    AT    MODRZEJOW 


RUSSIAN   POLAND 


492     PEASANTS'  HOUSES  IN  UR'ZEDOW 


493     PEASANT'S  HOUSE  IN  LOWICZ 


RUSSIAN   POLAND 


494  AND  495     PEASANTS'  PAINTED  HOUSES 


M 

cj 
a 
D 
H 
o 


O 

— 


M 
2 


W 

o. 


RUSSIAN  POLAND 


498     PEASANT'S  HOUSE  IN  LOWICZ 


y^B    \i  '''• 


499     PEASANT'S  HOUSE  IN  URZEDOW 


RUSSIAN   POLAND 


I 


JOO       INTERIOR    OF    A    PEASANT'S    HOUSE    AT    LOWICZ 


5OI       INTERIOR    OF    A    PEASANT'S    HOUSE    AT    LOWICZ 


O 
Pu, 


in 
in 

D 


•I 

a 

i 


•••9 


M 

0 

s 


is 

o 

SJ 

u 


O 

(X, 


RUSSIAN   POLAND 


508  TO   512     CUT  PAPER  DESIGNS  FROM  LOWICZ 


C/3 

z 
o 

So 
W 
Q 

a! 
W 
o, 
< 

0, 

H 
D 
U 


' 


vg 

m 


o 


517       CUT    PAPER    DESIGN 


LITHUANIA 


THE  PEASANT  ART  OF  LITHUANIA. 

BY  MICHAEL  BRENSZTEJN. 

THE  manifold  influences  to  which  Lithuania  has  been  subjected 
in  the  course  of  centuries  sufficiently  account  for  the 
characteristic  diversity  of  the  basic  elements  in  its  peasant 
art  as  a  whole.  This  "  Volkskunst  "  forms  a  conglomera- 
tion of  various  ethnographic  elements  which  frequently  pre- 
sent sharp  contrasts.  Beginning  with  an  ornament  that  is  reminiscent 
of  Roman  bronzes,  there  are  to  be  found  in  this  peasant  art,  derived 
from  a  common  pre-Aryan  source,  more  or  less  numerous  traces  of 
Finnish,  Scandinavian,  Germanic,  Oriental,  Byzanto-Russian,  West 
Polish  and  other  influences,  some  of  which  are  still  existent,  while 
others  have  already  vanished.  And  since  these  manifold  influences 
have  not  operated  for  the  same  length  of  time  and  with  the  same 
intensity  in  all  parts  ot  the  country,  it  has  resulted  that  the  peasant 
art  of  each  of  these  parts  has  acquired  certain  particular  traits  not 
only  in  regard  to  form,  but  also  in  respect  of  technique  and  material. 
On  the  other  hand,  however,  the  general  character,  physical  and 
mental,  of  the  native  inhabitants,  has  impressed  a  common  stamp 
upon  the  entire  peasant  art  of  the  country,  and  in  consequence,  in 
spite  of  racial  affinities  with  other  countries,  the  artistic  productions 
of  Lithuania  as  a  whole  have  acquired  a  distinct  and  independent 
character,  both  as  regards  conception  and  a  certain  archaism  and 
primitivism  of  execution. 

The  artistic  activity  of  the  Lithuanians  has  in  the  main  mani- 
fested itself  in  three  directions — in  weaving,  in  the  ornamentation  of 
their  household  utensils  of  wood,  and  in  their  so-called  "  chapel 
crosses  "  or  wayside  shrines.  Their  architecture  I  will  pass  over,  as 
it  does  not  present  any  specially  characteristic  traits,  and  as  a  whole 
cannot,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  carvings  on  roofs,  balconies,  and 
window-frames,  mostly  adopted  in  recent  times  from  neighbouring 
peoples,  be  regarded  as  the  actual  creation  of  the  Lithuanians,  in  this 
respect  offering  a  marked  contrast  to  an  architecture  like  that  of  the 
Polish  inhabitants  of  the  Tatra  mountains.  (C/.  "  Peasant  Art  in 
Austria  and  Hungary.") 

In  ornamental  weaving  the  costumes  of  the  women  offered  the 
greatest  scope  for  the  activity  of  the  peasant  artist.  It  is,  however, 
very  difficult  at  the  present  day  to  reconstruct  the  costume  worn  in 
the  earliest  times,  even  with  the  aid  of  mediaeval  records.  If  one  may 
judge  from  an  apparently  very  ancient  usage,  which  continued  down 
to  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century  in  the  district  of  Poniewiesh 
(Government  of  Kovno),  and  even  now  persists  among  the  Letts  of 
Courland,  the  Lithuanian  women  wore  long  wide  robes  of  wool  or 

47 


LITHUANIA 

linen  which  enveloped  the  entire  figure,  and  were  fastened  at  the 
shoulder  by  a  large  round  clasp  of  silvered  metal,  which  was 
embellished  with  a  relief-like  floral  ornament.  The  so-called 
"  namitka "  may  be  regarded  as  the  sole  rudimentary  survival  or 
this  garment.  It  is  still  worn  by  old  peasant  women  in  various 
localities  in  the  Kovno  Government,  and  consists  of  long  narrow 
strips  of  white  linen  which  are  wound  round  head  and  neck,  the  ends 
hanging  loose  on  the  back  or  shoulders.  The  Slavic  origin  of  the 
word  "  namitka,"  and  the  use  of  this  article  of  apparel  by  the  peasant 
women  of  Volhynia  and  Podolia  until  the  beginning  of  the  nine- 
teenth century,  seem  to  confirm  the  legend  which  attributes  the 
introduction  of  this  headgear  into  Lithuania  to  Jagiello,  King  of 
Poland  and  Prince  of  Lithuania.  According  to  this  legend  all 
baptized  Lithuanian  women  received  from  Jagiello  one  of  these 
white  "  namitkas,"  to  distinguish  them  from  those  who  remained 
heathens. 

Of  particular  richness  and  variety  of  colour  was  the  costume 
worn  in  the  north  of  Lithuania— the  district  of  Zmudz.  The  oldest 
of  the  female  costumes  with  which  we  are  familiar  at  the  beginning 
of  the  nineteenth  century  consisted  of  the  "namitka,"  a  laced  corset, 
a  skirt,  a  long  dark-blue  jacket  or  coat,  and  an  apron  with  an 
embroidered  lower  edge.  At  a  later  date  the  jacket  or  coat  became 
shorter,  reaching  to  the  knees  only,  and  was  pleated  at  the  bottom 
(Nos.  521  and  522),  while  for  headgear  a  factory-made  cloth  took  the 
place  of  the  "  namitka."  The  coat,  from  the  bust  downwards  more 
and  more  closely  pleated,  became  in  time  to  be  known  in  North 
Lithuania  as  "  simtakvaldis,"  i.e.  "  a  hundred  pleats."  The  corset, 
made  of  patterned  wool  or  silk  material  and  often  provided  with 
metal  fastenings,  was  characteristically  short  in  North  Lithuania, 
somewhat  reminiscent  of  the  faille  of  the  Empire  mode,  which  is 
still  to  be  met  with  in  Sweden,  but  not  elsewhere  in  Lithuania. 
With  the  exception  of  the  three  silk  cloths  worn  wound  round  the 
head,  which  were  of  factory  origin,  the  whole  of  the  costume  was  a 
product  of  domestic  industry — the  "  hundred  pleated "  coat,  the 
pleated  corset,  the  striped  skirt  woven  of  wool,  the  linen  apron, 
as  well  as  the  openwork  collar  of  glass  beads.  Equally  original  was 
the  bridal  dress  worn  at  the  same  period  in  North  Lithuania,  which 
differed  from  that  worn  in  other  parts  of  Lithuania,  and  was  made 
wholly  of  factory-made  materials.  The  so-called  "  crown  "  formed  a 
distinctive  part  of  this  attire,  and  was  made  of  coloured  silk  ribbons 
manufactured  in  Prussia.  In  the  district  of  Poniewiesh  (Kovno)  the 
women  until  quite  a  short  time  ago  wore  broad  bands  made  of  gold 
thread  ("  kaspininkai  ")  with  lace  edging  and  silk  lining,  which  like- 

48 


LITHUANIA 

wise  were  of  German  origin.  These  bands  or  galloons  were  wound 
round  the  head  and  fastened  at  the  back.  The  only  relic  of  the  early 
costume  that  remains  in  North  Lithuania  is  the  partiality  for  crude 
colours  both  in  the  home-woven  woollen  stuffs  and  in  the  fabrics 
bought  from  traders.  In  place  of  the  striped  coats  that  used  to  be 
worn,  and  which  closely  resembled  the  work  of  peasants  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Lowicz  in  Poland,  Scotch  checks  have  now  come 
into  use,  while  the  corset  and  the  pleated  jacket  have  gone  out 
altogether.  Nor  are  these  few  survivals  any  longer  met  with  in 
other  parts  of  Lithuania. 

Only  in  recent  days,  when  the  national  renaissance  has  been 
proceeding  with  rapid  strides,  have  the  Lithuanian  women  begun  to 
wear  a  national  costume  on  the  occasion  of  important  festivals — a 
costume  borrowed  from  the  province  of  Suwalki.  Owing  to  the 
close  relations  which  have  subsisted  for  centuries  between  the 
Lithuanian  inhabitants  of  this  district  and  the  Polish  Mazurs,  this 
costume  strongly  resembles  that  worn  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Cracow. 

The  costume  of  the  men  has  fared  even  worse  than  that  of  the 
women,  and  it  fell  into  disuse  before  this.  From  analogy  with  the 
costume  worn  by  the  Lettish  men  in  Courland  and  according  to 
information  given  by  aged  inhabitants,  it  consisted  of  a  long  home- 
woven  woollen  coat  of  a  dark-blue  or  grey  colour,  resembling  in  cut 
and  fold  the  above  described  jacket  of  the  women.  At  the  present 
time  the  men  wear  short  coats  of  grey  home-woven  cloth,  having  the 
cut  of  a  town-made  coat.  Here  and  there  in  North  Lithuania  the 
fur  cap,  at  one  time  generally  worn  by  the  men,  is  still  retained 
under  the  name  of  "  triause,"  i.e.  three-eared — a  form  which  points  to 
its  having  been  adopted  from  the  people  of  a  country  with  a  very 
severe  climate,  probably  from  the  Finns,  whom  the  Lithuanians 
once  had  for  near  neighbours,  and  a  branch  of  whom  now  settled  in 
Lappland  still  wear  a  similar  cap.  The  wooden  shoes  ("  klumpie  "), 
still  frequently  met  with  in  North  Lithuania  and  often  bearing  carved 
or  painted  ornamentation,  are  akin  to  those  now  in  use  in  Sweden. 
Besides  these,  shoes  made  of  plaited  leather  are  in  general  use. 

On  the  southern  and  eastern  boundaries  of  Lithuania  woollen 
girdles  of  a  kind  quite  unknown  in  the  north  are  extensively  worn. 
They  are  from  two  to  ten  centimetres  wide  and  about  three  metres 
long,  and  are  ornamented  at  both  ends  with  fringes  ;  they  are  hand- 
woven  and  the  patterns  are  very  varied,  some  showing  a  close  re- 
semblance to  the  girdles  worn  in  the  adjacent  parts  of  White  Russia, 
while  others  are  similar  to  those  found  among  the  Laplanders. 

While  in  the  northern  districts  of  Lithuania  the  home-woven 

49 


LITHUANIA 

stuffs  have  only  stripes  or  checks  by  way  or  ornament,  in  the  south, 
i.e.  in  the  Government  of  Suwalki,  ornamental  motives  derived  from 
the  plant  world  are  principally  made  use  of,  along  with  geometrical 
patterns,  as  in  the  aprons  and  table-cloths  ;  and  here  the  tulip  motive 
("  Tulpinis  rastas  "),  wholly  unknown  in  the  north  and  extremely 
rare  in  Central  Lithuania,  is  very  much  in  evidence.  Curiously 
enough  the  only  other  place  where  this  motive  is  met  with  is  Bosnia, 
and  there  it  is  treated  differently  (cf.  "  Peasant  Art  in  Austria  and 
Hungary,"  illustration  No.  554),  while  its  use  is  unknown  amongst 
Lithuania's  neighbours. 

The  practice  of  using  carved  ornamentation  for  domestic  utensils 
is  very  general  in  the  northern  districts  of  Lithuania.  A  wealth  of 
such  ornamental  devices  is  displayed  in  the  boards  to  which  the 
spindles  are  attached  at  the  spinning-wheel.  This  implement  is 
derived  from  Sweden,  where  it  is  in  common  use  and  known  as 
"  rockblad  "  ;  thence  has  come  its  form,  size  and,  to  a  large  extent,  its 
ornament  (cf.  "Peasant  Art  in  Sweden,"  Illus.  Nos.  148-166; 
also  "  Fataburen,"  1909  No.  i,  Figs.  14-17). 

Very  original,  and  unknown  elsewhere  in  Europe,  is  the  long 
wooden  needle  called  "  sveikele,"  used  for  fastening  the  wool  or  flax 
to  the  board  of  the  spinning-wheel  (No.  538).  It  is  cut  out  of  a 
single  piece  of  wood,  although  it  often  has  a  few  links  at  the  end. 
One  cannot  help  marvelling  at  the  patience  bestowed  on  the  making 
of  these  implements  ;  sometimes  a  lad  will  spend  several  days  in 
making  a  single  needle  for  presentation  to  his  sweetheart  with  one 

of  the  carved  boards.  Another  imple- 
ment which  served  the  same  purpose  as 
these  boards  was  that  which  is  here 
figured — the  so-called  "  Przasnica,"  an 
appliance  which  doubtless  originated  in 
very  early  times  before  the  spinning-wheel 
existed.  The  board  AB  is  used  as  a 
seat ;  the  flax  E  is  attached  at  CD, 
whence  the  fibres  are  wound  on  the 
spindle  F.  The  board  CD 
usually  has  carved  ornamen- 
tation on  it,  and  one  example 
which  hails  from  the  govern- 
ment of  Kovno,  and  belongs 
to  the  year  1774,  bears  a  striking  likeness  in  motive  and  technique 
to  similar  implements  from  the  district  of  Lida  in  the  Vilna  Govern- 
ment, where  the  Lithuanians  have  mingled  with  the  White  Russians 
and  borrowed  their  ornamentation. 
5° 


LITHUANIA 

Similar  decoration  is  found  on  the  "  kultuves,"  a  kind  of  stick 
or  beetle  used  in  laundry  operations,  as  well  as  on  the  "  abrusienicze," 
or  towel-rails  (No.  536),  and  other  articles.  These  objects  are  often 
painted  in  divers  colours. 

From  their  long  and  intimate  relations  with  the  Finns,  the 
Lithuanians  derived  a  stringed  instrument,  now  coming  into  use 
again  after  being  long  discarded — an  old  Finnish  instrument  some- 
what akin  to  the  zither,  and  called  in  Lithuanian  "  kanles  "  (No.  546), 
a  variation  of  "  kantele,"  the  name  by  which  the  instrument  is 
mentioned  in  the  Kalevala. 

The  favourite  colours  of  the  people  of  North  Lithuania,  to 
iudge  by  their  preferences  in  both  home-woven  and  purchased  stuffs 
and  the  pigments  used  for  their  household  implements,  are  red, 
green,  and  yellow  ;  in  the  south,  besides  these,  blue  and  violet  are 
in  vogue,  But  red  is  dominant  everywhere.  A  North  Lithuanian 
proverb  says,  "What  is  red  is  beautiful,"*  and  up  till  the  middle  of 
the  nineteenth  century  an  entirely  red  costume  was  worn  there,  ot 
which  the  writer  possesses  an  example.  In  combining  the  crude 
colours  regard  is  always  paid  to  the  rules  governing  the  comple- 
mentary colours  ;  the  vegetable  dyes  in  use  are  prepared  at  home, 
and  the  harmonies  of  tone  achieved  with  them  have  resulted 
naturally  from  long  usage. 

In  recent  times  there  has  been  an  active  revival  of  weaving  as 
a  domestic  industry,  especially  in  the  north,  thanks  to  the  support 
given  to  the  movement  by  the  landed  proprietors. 

It  remains  for  us  to  mention  what  are,  perhaps,  the  worthiest 
products  of  the  artistic  activity  of  the  Lithuanians — namely,  the 
carved  crosses  and  "  chapels  "  which  they  are  wont  to  set  up  outside 
their  homes,  by  the  roadside,  on  the  summits  of  hills,  on  the  graves 
of  the  dead,  and  in  other  places  as  memorials  of  their  gratitude  to 
God  or  as  marks  of  their  sorrow.  The  country  used  to  be  full  of 
them,  and  they  gave  it  a  quite  specific  character,  so  that  at  one  time 
the  line  of  demarcation  of  the  cross-strewn  territory  practically 
coincided  with  the  ethnographic  boundary  of  Lithuania.  Nowhere 
else  in  Europe,  with  the  exception  of  a  part  of  Hungary,  are  such 
richly  ornamented  crosses  erected.  It  is  hardly  possible  to  group 
them  into  definite  types.  In  every  diocese,  and  even  in  every  village, 
the  crosses  show  differences  of  proportions,  form,  ornament,  colour, 
and  iconography.  In  regard  to  form,  as  well  as  ornament,  individual 
freedom  has  had  full  play.  The  ornamental  motives  are  very  varied, 
and  the  plant-world  has  been  largely  drawn  upon.  All  styles  are 

*  It    is    the  same  with    the    Russians.     In  Russian  krasny  means    both   red   and 
beautiful.     Trans. 

5' 


LITHUANIA 

represented  among  them,  derived  probably  from  the  churches  in  the 
vicinity.  Particularly  noteworthy  are  the  iron  ornaments  which 
usually  crown  the  roofs  or  canopies  of  such  "  chapel  crosses."  Simple 
as  they  are,  and  mostly  made  by  illiterate  village  smiths,  they  often 
possess  a  certain  nobility  of  line  and  display  a  wealth  of  fantasy.  The 
carved  wooden  figures  of  saints  which  form  part  of  these  memorials 
naturally  follow  as  closely  as  possible  the  recognised  iconography  of 
the  Church,  and  differ  from  similar  productions  in  other  countries 
only  in  their  primitive  technique.  This  branch  of  Lithuanian  peasant 
art  received  its  death-blow  about  half  a  century  ago,  when  an  interdict 
was  issued  (1864)  against  the  erection  of  such  crosses  in  other  places 
than  cemeteries,  and  the  revocation  of  the  interdict  in  1896  has  had 
very  little  effect  in  reviving  it.  The  number  of  "  chapel-crosses  "  is 
diminishing  year  by  year,  and  their  place  is  being  taken  more  and 
more  by  smooth  commonplace  wooden  crosses  which  are  destitute 
of  decorative  features. 

We  come  at  length  to  the  following  final  result  of  our  investi- 
gation. The  older  peasant  art  of  Lithuania,  and  particularly  that  of 
its  northern  parts,  is  predominantly  akin  to  the  Finnish,  and  to  some 
extent  to  the  Scandinavian  ;  while,  in  its  later  forms,  it  shows  more 
affinity  to  Slav  types.  The  neighbourly  relations  which  subsisted 
for  so  many  years  between  the  Lithuanians  and  the  Finns  have  given 
to  them  a  common  stock  of  folk-songs  and  a  whole  series  of  similar 
phrases.  Which  of  the  two  races  has  borrowed  from  the  other,  and 
how  much,  cannot  at  present  be  determined,  for  the  history  of  their 
association  has  so  far  been  very  little  investigated,  and  such  linguistic 
studies  as  bear  upon  the  question  have  not  got  beyond  the  pre- 
liminary stage.  Light  on  this  problem  will  only  come  when  the 
nomenclature  of  the  various  ornamental  motives  and  domestic 
appliances  in  Lithuanian  and  Finnish  has  been  subjected  to 
thorough  analysis. 


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523       BANDS    OF    CORAL    BEADS,    FROM    SUWALKI 


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Holme,    Charles 

Peasant  art  in  Russia 


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